Staffa

The striking columnar basalt cliffs of the island of Staffa drew us closer as we circumnavigated in our Zodiacs. Astounding congregations of jellyfish filled the water, pulsating in their futile efforts to create their own courses. The ocean currents are the masters of the destinies of these pelagic creatures.

On the water's surface, huge rafts of puffins loafed between feedings for themselves and for their young. Lesser numbers of puffin relatives, common murres, black guillemots and razorbills, were mixed into the rafts. Gulls (several types), cormorants, eiders, oystercatchers and other winged critters kept us company.

Three distinct lava flows are evident as you enter Fingal's Cave. Laid down between 60 million and 50 million years ago, each has its own history. The middle layer is one of the most striking examples of columnar basalt to be found anywhere in the world. Formed by slowly cooling lava flows, the rock contracts, forming crystal-like structures. Typically hexagonal, the columns often have anywhere from four to eight sides.

Sitting on an ancient fault line, this cave has been carved by endless poundings from the surf.