Coquimbo, Chile
The quiet port of Coquimbo in central Chile was awakening slowly as the first light of day allowed us to see the process of docking the National Geographic Endeavour. Many people anxious to get started on their day’s excursions watched or just looked around at the clusters of small fishing boats quietly tugging at their moorings. An early breakfast energized everyone for a long day of visiting different parts surrounding the northern part of the IV Region of Chile.
Off first was the group going to see Fray Jorge National Park and its unique island of Valdivian forest. High fog, called camanchaca, blocked the sun, which is normal for the early morning. But by the time we reached the park entrance, the general fog had dissipated revealing a high ridge to the west shrouded in clouds, the ultimate reason why the forest exists. At a small oasis we were treated to a very curious South American Fox, as interested in us as we were of him. Then our route wound its way up and up into the clouds. For the next 2 hours we learned about this fascinating micro-ecosystem. Prior to this the environment was dry desert scrub, but now it was a thick green forest nurtured by fog that collects on the branches and leaves dripping to the ground. A walk down the road gave us a view below the clouds over the entire coastal mountain range. Before going to lunch we were treated to a look at some of the small mammals being studied in the park. Professor Julio Gutierrez and some of his students surprised us with 8 species of small mammals that they recently captured for their research. Refreshed by lunch and pisco sours served at the headquarters, we then drove back to the awaiting ship only to be treated to some local folk music and dancing.
Another group headed to the north of the port. First this group traveled along the recently remodeled coastal road and then through the historic town of La Serena. Situated at the lower end of the Elqui Valley, the town was one of the first settlements along this part of the coast and also one of the most fought over during the early colonial years. Driving up the Elqui Valley we could see that agriculture was the most important activity use with fields of papaya, prickly pear cactus, grapes, and other valuable products. In the small village of Vicuna we learned about Chile’s poet laureate Gabriela Mistral. Then our route turned to the south into one of the most picturesque valleys called Claro. The clear blue sky contrasted sharply with the earthy browns of the exposed geology and then vibrant greens of the vineyards of the valley bottom. At the village of Pisco Elqui we were treated to a typical lunch followed by time to explore the characteristic village plaza with its lovely small church perched on the edge above. This area of Chile is renowned for its production and distilling of pisco. The small pisco bodega of Los Nichos gave us an authentic look at the making of this famous liquor.
A third group of just a few people made a morning visit to the picturesque and historic village of La Serena. Being a Sunday, the streets were relatively quiet. The local history and natural history museum put in perspective the value of the village to the history of Chile. Everyone was back on the ship late in the afternoon. Throwing off the lines we watched Peruvian pelicans and Peruvian boobies fishing around the colorful small local fishing boats. A very picturesque ending to our first day exploring coastal Chile.
The quiet port of Coquimbo in central Chile was awakening slowly as the first light of day allowed us to see the process of docking the National Geographic Endeavour. Many people anxious to get started on their day’s excursions watched or just looked around at the clusters of small fishing boats quietly tugging at their moorings. An early breakfast energized everyone for a long day of visiting different parts surrounding the northern part of the IV Region of Chile.
Off first was the group going to see Fray Jorge National Park and its unique island of Valdivian forest. High fog, called camanchaca, blocked the sun, which is normal for the early morning. But by the time we reached the park entrance, the general fog had dissipated revealing a high ridge to the west shrouded in clouds, the ultimate reason why the forest exists. At a small oasis we were treated to a very curious South American Fox, as interested in us as we were of him. Then our route wound its way up and up into the clouds. For the next 2 hours we learned about this fascinating micro-ecosystem. Prior to this the environment was dry desert scrub, but now it was a thick green forest nurtured by fog that collects on the branches and leaves dripping to the ground. A walk down the road gave us a view below the clouds over the entire coastal mountain range. Before going to lunch we were treated to a look at some of the small mammals being studied in the park. Professor Julio Gutierrez and some of his students surprised us with 8 species of small mammals that they recently captured for their research. Refreshed by lunch and pisco sours served at the headquarters, we then drove back to the awaiting ship only to be treated to some local folk music and dancing.
Another group headed to the north of the port. First this group traveled along the recently remodeled coastal road and then through the historic town of La Serena. Situated at the lower end of the Elqui Valley, the town was one of the first settlements along this part of the coast and also one of the most fought over during the early colonial years. Driving up the Elqui Valley we could see that agriculture was the most important activity use with fields of papaya, prickly pear cactus, grapes, and other valuable products. In the small village of Vicuna we learned about Chile’s poet laureate Gabriela Mistral. Then our route turned to the south into one of the most picturesque valleys called Claro. The clear blue sky contrasted sharply with the earthy browns of the exposed geology and then vibrant greens of the vineyards of the valley bottom. At the village of Pisco Elqui we were treated to a typical lunch followed by time to explore the characteristic village plaza with its lovely small church perched on the edge above. This area of Chile is renowned for its production and distilling of pisco. The small pisco bodega of Los Nichos gave us an authentic look at the making of this famous liquor.
A third group of just a few people made a morning visit to the picturesque and historic village of La Serena. Being a Sunday, the streets were relatively quiet. The local history and natural history museum put in perspective the value of the village to the history of Chile. Everyone was back on the ship late in the afternoon. Throwing off the lines we watched Peruvian pelicans and Peruvian boobies fishing around the colorful small local fishing boats. A very picturesque ending to our first day exploring coastal Chile.
