Española Island

No one ever believes us when we predict, as these week long voyages in Galápagos proceed, day by day, that right up to the very last minute they spend on shore, our guests will be totally enthralled and enchanted and experiencing new sights and sounds. Each day is different, every single island has its own charm and interest, and the visits seem to get better and better. No one can imagine that we will be able to maintain this pace and excitement for the entire week. But, we always do! Today, ending our week as we have, on the fantastic island of Española was no exception. What an incredible 12 hours we have had!!

I let us all sleep in this morning, and we were cozily chatting and hanging out in the lounge before breakfast. From these comfortable seats we witnessed a special show: a large male sea lion, off our starboard side, struggled to break up and swallow a huge chunk of fish while frigate birds dove and fluttered above him, hoping for a tidbit for themselves. The morning’s snorkeling outing around Tortuga Islet produced rays and golden puffer fish, barberfish, grunts and king angels. The visibility was superb, the water a few degrees warmer than expected, and the three Zodiacs of snorkelers were utterly delighted with their experience.

On the beach we observed the miracle of birth: a sea lion pup, just born, bleated, was nuzzled by its mother and took its fist drink. The brilliant white sand beach, lapped by crystalline turquoise waters, sea lions resting and romping, nursing and bellowing, cheeky mockingbirds investigating our towels and back packs: it was almost too wonderful for us to really believe and assimilate. Incredible natural beauty, peacefulness and innocence.

Our final walk on the shores of Galápagos was along the lava boulder loop trail at Punta Suarez. Here we found more of the endemic mocking birds and lava lizards, gaudy turquoise and red marine iguanas, courting blue-footed boobies (finally!) and the magnificent waved albatross. The few ungainly albatross chicks we spotted could not be called “magnificent” but they were so disarrayed and awkward looking that they stole our hearts. The magic continued right up to the very end of the trail: we coaxed and cajoled and managed to clear dozing sea lions off the landing dock as the sun set.