Oban

The day dawned overcast and misty, with still no sight of the summit of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain. The Scottish landscape was not going to give up its secrets easily. Undeterred, we began our descent of Neptune’s staircase, the remarkable flight of eight locks which were the biggest in the world at the time of their construction in the early 1800s. Some of us disembarked to watch the spectacle from the side of the canal, while others enjoyed the view from the comfort of the lounge. Konia gave us a lively account of some customs and traditions of the Highlands. Just before we finally exited the canal into the open waters of Loch Linnie, we had a splendid view of the steam train on its way along the West Highland line, better known to the world as ‘Hogwart’s Express’.

Later in the morning, as we sailed southwards towards Oban, Carol presented an illustrated talk on the history of early Scotland. The sheltered harbour at Oban, guarded by the ancient ruins of Dunollie Castle, is one of the finest anchorages on the west coast of Scotland. This is where King Haakon of Norway mustered his fleet of 120 Norse long ships before the battle of Largs in 1263, ‘all of them in good trim both in men and weapons’. From here ferries depart to the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides, and fishing boats and pleasure vessels busily come and go. We watched intrigued as a sea plane landed on the bay, and took off later in the day.

First was an unforgettable tour of Oban’s whisky distillery, and a chance to sample some of its finest products. Then, after an afternoon exploring the bustling town, Konia led a walk up to McCaig’s Tower, a folly which dominates the skyline and serves as a memorial to the town’s late 19th century entrepreneur and his family. The mood of the earlier day was transformed in the late afternoon sunshine. From the vantage point of the tower we surveyed the harbour, the bay and beyond the western islands which were set in a sparkling sea full of anticipation for what tomorrow would bring.