Southern Isabela Island

This morning we awoke as Captain Juan Robalino dropped anchor off the small and sleepy port of Villamil. Lynn and Fernando disembarked first with a dozen “volcano hikers.” We boarded taxi pickups, which took us to the end of the road on the slopes of Volcan Sierra Negra. We experienced all the weather types today. It rained for the first half hour, and then rain turned into garua drizzle. Later the clouds parted and we had a magnificent view of the huge caldera (7 by 10 km) and by afternoon we had intermittent sun, but we were fortunate that a refreshing breeze accompanied us through out the day.

The hike to the rim of Sierra Negra, and on around to the site of a 1979 eruption of Volcan Chico is a 8-10 mile hike. This is a long and tiring walk, but the views of the immense caldera and of the barren lava flows and cinder cones that do not yet support a single plant are worth the effort. Both guests and staff who made that demanding hike felt a great sense of both accomplishment and privilege. And the cold beer or cola at the end of the long trail hit the spot!

For those of us who chose to remain in the lowlands today, there were several options. We visited the Charles Darwin Research Station Tortoise Breeding Center.

Then we had free time to swim or ride a boogie board in the waves at the lovely white sand beach that stretches miles along the southern coast of Isabela. We explored the town, did a little shopping, relaxed over a beer and returned to the ship for a lavish buffet lunch. The “make your own ice cream sundae” dessert was a huge hit!

In the afternoon (while the volcano hikers were still plodding along on the crater above) some of us followed Celso on a short Zodiac ride and walk to an islet where we enjoyed observing sea lions and iguanas and a lovely breeze on a tiny white beach surrounded by rugged lava. Lola and a group of guests went by taxi to the “wall of tears.” The ride to the west of town along a cinder and sand road, and across little wooden bridges and mangrove inlets was exhilarating, and Lola gave us some interesting facts about the human history of Puerto Villamil.

In the late afternoon we gathered under the thatched roof of La Choza Restaurant for fish and plantain appetizers and then returned through the waves in our skilfully guided Zodiacs to the ship. Three eager members of the “Amigos de las Tortugas Club” gave us a charming presentation about how they are involved in protecting the giant tortoises of Isabela and then stayed for dinner.