Montenegro
The mountains seemed to emit a healthy glow creating a rosy aura in the sky to the south as the ship sat poised to enter Boka Kotorska, the mouth of Kotorfjord. The unknowing would look upon this land and see only limestone ridges guarding the rear of a small town with twinkling lights perched at the back of a bay. But what secrets there were to be found inside!
A hint of what was to come could have been surmised from the clues sitting in plain view on either side of the narrow harbor entrance. Two islets, one to the north and one to the south, each wore a crown of walls enclosing a formidable looking fortress. There had to be a treasure trove nearby to warrant this protection. The bay was deeper than we anticipated. In fact, it had two arms, Hercegnovski Zalir and Tivatski Zalir. Red roofed houses clustered here and there along the shoreline while old and deserted monasteries peered down from the mountain sides.
Slowly another secret was revealed. The tortured limestone highlands weren't contiguous ahead but instead dipped down to the water's edge on either side. From the mouth we had only reached the pharynx so to speak. Effortlessly we slid down the constricted throat to reach the bilobed stomach which from the cliffs above looked like a somewhat lopsided bow. What an incredible harbor! Hidden from view and easily defensible, it was only logical that seafaring nations would establish themselves here, one replaced by another over time.
In 1452 or thereabouts, legend states that two brothers rowed from the town of Perast, opposite to the orifice of the "throat" or entry to the inner bays. Their destination was a prominent rock hidden just beneath the waters of Risenski Zaliv. As their lines were lowered in search of fish their eyes discovered an icon of a lovely Madonna resting there. Retrieved, she was taken to the church but the next day the situation repeated itself. For the next two hundred years, boats laded with stones were scuttled upon this rock until an island was created. A chapel was constructed and "The Lady of the Rock" brought home to where she wished to be. From then until this day tiny boats and ships like ours slowing circle the islet, saluting her however they can to ensure safe passage on their journeys.
Kotor cascades down the valley at the terminus of the bay, medieval fortifications mingling with modern houses. This was the Venetian town that made tiny Perast wealthy. How better to protect yourself than to hide away and pay your neighbors to blockade your major "highway"? The sun shone upon us as we explored the alleys and churches of both these towns. For a better view we meandered through the black forests of pines, junipers and cypress either on foot or by bus clinging tenaciously to the almost vertical mountain sides.
Tonight the walled city takes on contemporary attire, beckoning late night diners or those who just wish to stroll.
The mountains seemed to emit a healthy glow creating a rosy aura in the sky to the south as the ship sat poised to enter Boka Kotorska, the mouth of Kotorfjord. The unknowing would look upon this land and see only limestone ridges guarding the rear of a small town with twinkling lights perched at the back of a bay. But what secrets there were to be found inside!
A hint of what was to come could have been surmised from the clues sitting in plain view on either side of the narrow harbor entrance. Two islets, one to the north and one to the south, each wore a crown of walls enclosing a formidable looking fortress. There had to be a treasure trove nearby to warrant this protection. The bay was deeper than we anticipated. In fact, it had two arms, Hercegnovski Zalir and Tivatski Zalir. Red roofed houses clustered here and there along the shoreline while old and deserted monasteries peered down from the mountain sides.
Slowly another secret was revealed. The tortured limestone highlands weren't contiguous ahead but instead dipped down to the water's edge on either side. From the mouth we had only reached the pharynx so to speak. Effortlessly we slid down the constricted throat to reach the bilobed stomach which from the cliffs above looked like a somewhat lopsided bow. What an incredible harbor! Hidden from view and easily defensible, it was only logical that seafaring nations would establish themselves here, one replaced by another over time.
In 1452 or thereabouts, legend states that two brothers rowed from the town of Perast, opposite to the orifice of the "throat" or entry to the inner bays. Their destination was a prominent rock hidden just beneath the waters of Risenski Zaliv. As their lines were lowered in search of fish their eyes discovered an icon of a lovely Madonna resting there. Retrieved, she was taken to the church but the next day the situation repeated itself. For the next two hundred years, boats laded with stones were scuttled upon this rock until an island was created. A chapel was constructed and "The Lady of the Rock" brought home to where she wished to be. From then until this day tiny boats and ships like ours slowing circle the islet, saluting her however they can to ensure safe passage on their journeys.
Kotor cascades down the valley at the terminus of the bay, medieval fortifications mingling with modern houses. This was the Venetian town that made tiny Perast wealthy. How better to protect yourself than to hide away and pay your neighbors to blockade your major "highway"? The sun shone upon us as we explored the alleys and churches of both these towns. For a better view we meandered through the black forests of pines, junipers and cypress either on foot or by bus clinging tenaciously to the almost vertical mountain sides.
Tonight the walled city takes on contemporary attire, beckoning late night diners or those who just wish to stroll.
