Genovesa
Sunrise was already past when we finally entered Darwin’s Bay inside Genvesa Island. Just as we approached the shallow rim, over which the National Geographic Endeavour was to sail in order to get into the 600-foot-deep waters inside the bay, a large dorsal fin was spotted. The hammerhead shark made zig-zigging moves right below the surface, possibly hunting, definitely a thrill for those of us on deck. Red-footed boobies flew overhead and frigates even higher. Soon enough we were surrounded by the cliffs of Genovesa: basalt, gray, streaked, towering rocks, with layers of solid lava interspersed with rubble.
Two sites were visited here: the beach and “Prince Philip’s Steps.” Half of us went to one, while the other half visited the other; then in the afternoon we switched.
The beach is amazing. Yards from where one disembarks from the Zodiacs there are firgate chicks in nests, swallow-tailed gulls peeping over chicks or eggs and red-footed boobies sqawking as they land on branches, announcing their arrival to mates.
Prince Philip’s Steps are located on the opposite side of the bay. A fissure in the cliff face, filled with large boulders, somewhat adjusted with concrete into steps. Again, red-footed boobies nesting in Palo Santa trees, frigates nesting in salt-bushes, a short-eared owl right by the trail. Wedge-rumped storm petrels flitting over their nesting sites (under a thin layer of lava numerous spaces serve as places to raise young).
Kayakers and snorklers took to the water, as did the fierce competitors who signed up for the “Kayak Regatta.” Half crew teams, half guest teams…despite thinking our crew get frequent chances to practise kayaking, the reality is they don’t…ever (after all, they are working!). Today, however, our third mate Marlon and helmsman Tito got the grand prize….followed closely by two guests!
It was fascinating in the evening to hear the comments of all who cared to speak into the microphone before dinner. Wonderful comments about the child-like wonder and awe experienced during the week; the acknowledgement that in one’s own back yard there is much to care for. Galápagos can awaken feelings long hidden, suddenly exposed. Oh yes, there is “Nature” out there! And it needs our help if we want future generations to feel the same sense of wonder and awe.
The evening was rounded out by a slide-show of everyone’s best five photos, and a night sky filed with stars!
