Palouse River
At the earliest hint of dawn the National Geographic Sea Bird eased into the mouth of the Palouse River and dropped anchor. A newly waning moon rode high in the southern sky and dark cliffs loomed over the quiet river. In the gentle dawn’s increasing light the weathered brown basalt of the cliffs emerged. The rocky landscape was softened by the buff-colored grasses of autumn covering all but the steepest cliffs. Near the ship a pair of American coots and a Western grebe left small wakes on the water’s surface, barely rippling in a light breeze. In the distance a long freight train crossed a high trestle over the Snake River.
The Palouse River day is a perfect blend of adventure and cruising. We were soon immersed in our varying activities, from kayaking and Zodiac tours on this very scenic river, to an overland trip to spectacular Palouse Falls. Kayakers glided along the river, many having close-up looks at cattails and tule sedges along the river’s edge, or even, yes, fondling the base of a basalt cliff that rose straight up from the water. We have all learned to appreciate the special beauty of this area of sage brush steppe and basalt.
In the Zodiacs we moved upstream at a leisurely pace, taking time to stop and look at a beaver lodge, to see where the red-winged blackbird was hiding in the cattails, and to study plants noted by Lewis and Clark. We waited for diving grebes to reappear, saw coots working hard to get airborne, and watched hawks and ravens soaring high over the cliffs. We were thrilled to see half a dozen mule deer moving through the aromatic sagebrush on a slope above the river.
The visitors to Palouse Falls witnessed the Palouse River free-falling 198 feet into its plunge pool below. Here one’s mind can grapple with the image of the Ice Age floods that thousands of years ago raged 100 feet high and eight miles wide over this spot, sculpting the land into the shapes we see today.
In the sunny afternoon we enjoyed lunch on deck and relaxed as we cruised downriver. Associate Professor Rachel St. John, with the Harvard group, gave an interesting and pertinent presentation on the history of dams and hydroelectric power on the Columbia. After dinner, Grace, our naturalist and geologist gave a presentation on the Cascade volcanoes; both presentations were followed by lively discussion and question and answer sessions.
