Isla Floreana, Galápagos

This morning we awoke at anchor off Punta Cormorant at the northern end of Isla Floreana. Our first outing of the day was an early-morning walk to explore the beautiful beaches and interior lagoon of this cinder cone-dotted landscape. Here we found various textures and contrasts leading to dramatic photo opportunities. We landed at a darker olivine beach, and longer hikers headed over a low ridge to a brilliant, white, coralline beach with peeks at sea turtles and rays swimming along the shore. The bare Palo Santo trees stood starkly pale against the dark volcanic surfaces. The cracked crusty edge of the brackish lagoon created an interesting foreground pattern to the steeply angular background.

Our second outing was to the undersea world around Champion Islet. Everyone had a chance to view this rich environment either from the dry and warmer viewpoint of the glass-bottom boat, or from the refreshingly cool view through a snorkel mask. Drift snorkelers began in an area thick with king angelfish and yellow-tailed surgeonfish. Along our drift towards the leeward side of the islet, we saw black-tipped reef sharks, parrotfish, Moorish idols, plus a variety of other fish. We enjoyed occasional guest appearances as sleek and playful Galápagos sea lions glided through the water around us.

After lunch we again had a full schedule. We began with an inspiring presentation by National Geographic Photographer Karen Kasmauski, “People Animals Places.” Afterwards, there were options for kayaking, and then Zodiacs around Post Office Bay, the traditional whaler’s post office used by seamen since the late 1700s. Many of us dropped off postcards addressed for friends and family at home, and some of us picked up a letter or two to take home to deliver to addresses ranging from Seattle to Poland! We continued on from there for Zodiac cruises through a series of islets formed by lava pillows, finding three of the iconic animals of the islands — Galápagos sea lions, blue-footed boobies, and Galápagos penguins.

But the secrets of Isla Floreana had not yet been revealed, and after dinner Paula told us all about “Floreana, the Mystery Island.”