Chiloé Island, Southern Chile

After traveling to this long narrow country and settling in to our “home” for this voyage, the National Geographic Endeavour, the first morning was spent visiting the countryside and environments of Chiloé Island. An early breakfast gave us energy to get into the Zodiacs for a short shuttle to a ferry ramp at the center of the waterfront in Castro, the capital village of the island. Two options were available to choose from for the days excursions.

The first group went across the island to the western side where the Chiloé National Park provided a chance to walk in some of the temperate rainforest typical on the island. At the park headquarters the rangers welcomed us at the a small visitor center. The trails wound through the forest and we had our first chance to see some of the plants and a few of the birds native to the region. Being spring in the southern hemisphere a few of the plants are in full bloom giving a bit of color to an otherwise lush green and earth toned scene. Following the hike we were refreshed at a local restaurant with the local specialty of seafood and adequate supplies of drink, including some of the Chilean wine and Pisco sours.

The alternative option for visiting Chiloé was a cultural drive through the island’s countryside and seeing some of the small villages and learn about life in the archipelago. One of the unique features of the island’s history and culture are the wooden churches. We had a chance to see a few of the churches, some of which have been designated and world heritage sites by UNESCO. The churches and many of the houses are covered in a protective shell of wooden shingles traditionally cut from Alerce trees. The shape of these shingles is quite artistic and consist of many different designs. To reach the small village of Achao where one of the largest and most unique churches sits we had to cross a small channel on a small ferry where the skill of the coach drivers was tested. Of course we had to return as well and at the end of the pleasant short trip back across we stopped in the fishing village of Dalcahue. Being Sunday there was a small handicraft market on the waterfront where people from nearby islands and villages were selling beautiful cotton weavings including hats, sweaters, blankets, and carvings. Lunch was the uniquely cooked cuaranto consisting of seafood and potatoes cooked in a pit in the ground that is lined and covered in leaves of one of the large plants on the island. A heaping bowl of mussels, clams, chicken, and sausage was very filling.

Back on the ship in the middle of the afternoon we traveled about 15 miles through the many islands to Quinchao Island where Tato, one of the ship’s naturalist staff has a small farm. As we landed in a stiff wind and choppy seas, a small group of Silvery Grebes greeted us. On the mudflats in the small bay there were many birds feeding. The surrounding landscape was lovely in the low evening light of spring time. For the first day on the ship we had many interesting experiences, including about all of the different faces of the weather that can happen to Chiloé.