Ambrym and Meskelyne Islands, Vanuatu

Today’s wake up call is a surprise, as humpback whales are directly ahead of the ship. The National Geographic Endeavour maneuvers slowly for a good look at a cow and calf pair directly ahead of the ship. Sightings are rare in this region of the South Pacific, so not much is known about the migratory patterns of these particular humpback whales—a lucky sighting indeed.

This morning we visit Ambrym Island, also called Black Island for its dark volcanic soils. As we make our approach to the village of Nobul on the island’s northwest coast, clouds obscure the active volcanic summit. Ambyrm is considered a center of ritual and sorcery in Vanuatu, as magic is said to be strongest on volcanic islands. A mystical ashy haze hangs over the island this morning.

On shore, the sacred Rom Dance ceremony awaits us. Before we are all invited ashore, the chief makes a special welcome for the Captain of the Endeavour. Then, along of the edge of the dark forest, men start to chant as tall masked figures begin to dance to haunting drum beats. In time, the figures emerge following each other in an elegant pattern of steps and movements. The patterns are repeated many times with the figures twirling and switching places. We have experienced many special moments on this Photo Expedition, and this dance presents the opportunity for very different images with masked spirit dancers set against the dark forest background.

This afternoon we make our way to Sakao Island in the Meskelyne group off the southern coast of Malakula Island. Here we spend a relaxing few hours kayaking, snorkeling, and scuba diving. The snorkelers report one of the best swims yet. And those of us still on shore in Zodiacs at sunset are treated to a flotilla of outrigger canoes setting sail for nearby islands and villages—another in a long series of magic moments that makes this voyage so amazing.