Fakarava, Tuamotus

Shortly after dawn the National Geographic Endeavour entered the lagoon of Fakarava Atoll. The fact that a ship of this size can navigate into the lagoon with relative ease says much about the scale of this atoll. About 60 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide, this is the second largest atoll (after Rangiroa) in French Polynesia. The size of the lagoon, and the low relief of the motus dotted around the edge, means that it is not possible to see from one end of the lagoon to the other.

In the morning we explored the main village of Rotoava where the majority of the population, 500 people, reside. Here we found evidence of the second most important economic activity in French Polynesia after tourism – the culture and sale of black pearls. Pearls are produced naturally when a foreign body, such as a piece of sand, enters the oyster. The reaction of the oyster is to secrete nacre (mother-of-pearl) around the foreign body to isolate it. When this occurs naturally a rare fine pearl is produced. Culturing pearls involves reproducing this natural process. Put simply, each pearl is carefully seeded by the expert placement of a piece of foreign material within the mantle of the pearl, a process known as seeding. This process has an element of mystery and was once only carried out by skilled Japanese brought to Polynesia; but recently Polynesians have learned the technique. After seeding the pearl the oysters are returned to the clear, warm, waters of the lagoon for a period of several years- the longer the period, the larger the pearl.

In the afternoon we relocated to a lagoon beach for snorkeling and some serious rest and relaxation. By evening our hotel staff had prepared up a barbecue for us, followed by entertainment by a local dance group.