Gdansk Poland

The National Geographic Endeavour left the Baltic Sea and entered the Vistual River early this morning, making her way south towards the port city of Gdansk, located in north central Poland. The ship was tied up at the north end of the Gdansk shipyards near the monument dedicated to the spot where the first bomb was dropped in 1939 beginning WWII.

Early this morning our ship’s compliment would be honored with a visit by Lech Welesa, former president of Poland. Arriving at 9:00 am Mr. Welesa met us in the forward lounge with his interpreter. Mr. Welesa, leader of the Solidarity movement, started his working life as an electrician in the Gdansk shipyards. After scaling a fence to join protesting workers in the shipyards and the continued protest of the Communist authorities, Mr. Welesa lost his job, but found what would be his work and his passion, beginning what would be the foundation for his country’s movement towards freedom. He began and continues to this day a fight to preserve a free market economy and independence in Poland. The Solitary Movement claimed the government of Poland in 1989 with the first free elections since 1947. Mr. Welesa who was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1983, guided Poland’s first parliamentary elections in 1991, and later became President of Poland in 1995. After a short dialogue, Mr. Welesa opened the floor up to questions and discussion; which proved to be insightful, thought provoking, laced with ever so slight, but truly black humor and gave each of us much to ponder and discuss during the following days. After a photography session, Mrs. Welesa and his party left the National Geographic Endeavour, and many of us followed down the gangway and headed to our three waiting busses and local guides. We began our exploration of this very important Hanseatic port city; with the Solidarity Monument located a short distance into the Gdansk shipyards. Gdansk was once the free port of Danzig where the Hanseatic League showed an impressive influence, making this city one of the most prosperous trade centers in Northern Europe. The Hanseatic League dominated commercial activity in this area of Europe from the 13th to the 15th century. (Hanse was medieval German word for guild or association, derived from the gothic word-meaning troop or company. In 1970 a massacre of workers protesting against the lawlessness of the Communist authorities happened here, and ten years later it led to the creation of the only legal independent trade union in the Soviet Bloc---Solidarity. Our morning’s first stop was to the monument that honors the Shipyard Workers who fell in 1970. This extremely tall sculpture represents an anchor symbol of hope, and a cross symbol of faith, martyrdom and victory. Back on board the busses we continued into Gdansk heading for old town, representing one of the greatest examples of the reconstruction of a city in Europe. Sixty to ninetyper cent of Gdansk was destroyed during WWII. Rebuilt from that rubble Gdansk became one of the major industrial centers of Poland.

The old town of Gdansk has two important gates on either side of a long avenue of merchant and guild buildings. Our walking tours and meeting point was located at the Green gate or the “backdoor” into Gdansk. The rebuilt houses representing all manner of goods were awe inspiring, especially considering a short 65 years ago we would be standing in a mammoth pile of broken bricks! In the center of the market street stood a great fountain with the god of sea, Neptune standing in the center. In former times once a ship’s crew arrived home safely from a long journey at sea, crewmembers came to the fountain and offered homage to the God of Sea for protecting them on yet another journey.

After a short walking tour of the center of the city, we had a chance to wander freely throughout the city. Some of us returned to the National Geographic Endeavour for a relaxing lunch while many of us enjoyed an opportunity to eat some traditional Polish food, relax in a café and watch the world in this Slavic capital roll by. Pirogies, begos, sausages, accompanied by a good Polish beer, what more could one ask for? Possibly a chance to explore the quiet back streets listening to street musicians and admiring some of the finely crafted and well known amber workshops mixed in with many of the fine art found beautifully displayed on each corner.

Our afternoon ended with an option to return to the National Geographic Endeavour by Zodiac, traveling just over five miles through the Gdansk shipyards. Dry docks lifting enormous boats out of the water, dozens of huge cranes, building after building showed the prosperity that has returned to Gdansk, bringing this city back to a the trade center it has been for more than 1,000 years.