Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland

We were expecting green but we awoke to gray. Newfoundlanders abbreviate the all-too-frequent condition to RDF (rain, drizzle and fog) and we were experiencing the true Newfoundland weather. Undeterred, we set off for our visit to the Serpentine Tablelands, the main reason for Gros Morne National Park’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As we squished soggily along behind our guides we learned that this is one of the few places on earth where rock from the earth’s mantle has been exposed on the surface. To the right of the highway we could see normal green vegetation; to the left was peridotite, toxic to most plants and containing the greenish, cracked pattern that resembles a snakeskin and gives both the rock and the area its name. Along the way we admired Newfoundland’s provincial flower, the insectivorous pitcher plant. Newfoundland has more than its share of insect-eating plants due to the lack of nitrogen in much of the soil. That nitrogen is obtained instead from the insects. As we walked we were guided from some of the oldest rocks in the park to some of the newest (travertine). A wet but newly educated group of geologists then visited the Discovery Center for a drier interpretative session on the park. The gift shop prospered.

The rain persisted through lunch and plans were altered accordingly. We visited the Marine Research and Interpretive Center where, among other creatures we viewed a lobster that looked green on one side but the color of a nicely cooked lobster on the other.

Buses took us to the Lobster Cove Lighthouse where the interpretive information was delivered in the local accent and dialect. Fortunately there wasn’t a test. There was also the great moose hunt (cameras only) which succeeded not only with views of moose, but also of woodland caribou on the edge of a huge fen that was also inhabited by Canada geese.

As fate would have it, the sun finally emerged as we returned to the ship for farewell cocktails. Bonne Bay showed its full beauty as we sailed away towards our final day aboard the beautiful new National Geographic Explorer, our home for a wonderful two weeks of memories.