Mljet / Korcula

After a smooth cruise overnight, we woke to sunny skies and a chilly northeasterly wind as we moored in the Croatian National Park of Mljet. The limestone coast was softened with a thick cover of pine forest, only one of the natural features for which Mljet is known. We landed by local tender at the western end of the island, coming ashore at the fishing village of Pomena. Most of us trecked over a small hill and along the coast of Mali Jezero (the Small Lagoon) to our basecamp for the day at Mali Most. This attractive little bridge and channel connects Mali Jezero with the larger lagoon of Veliko Jezero that eventually connects to the Adriatic Sea.

We had the option of taking bicycles along the waterfront trails, boating in Veliko Jezero, or taking a small excursion out to the small island of Sveti Marija with its isolated monastery. The autumnal breeze discouraged most of us from swimming, but those that took the plunge were quick to report that the water was warmer than the air. Hotel Manager Alex had refreshments waiting at the picnic tables, and it proved to be a most relaxing nature morning for all of us.

We then took a lazy couple of hours cruising over to the neighboring island of Korcula, with National Geographic expert Grace Fielder giving a talk on languages. The late afternoon was devoted to exploring the quintessential medieval town of Korcula, thought to be the home of Marco Polo and certainly one of the most compact and exemplary of the small Dalmation towns in Venetian style. We strolled through the herringbone street pattern and through the Bishop’s Palace and Cathedral, before gathering at sunset for a performance of the 400-year old Moreska Sword Dance. Virtually unchanged since the days when it was performed in the courts of Venetian nobles, the dance illustrates the story of the black king abducting the princess and the red king and his army prevailing to win her back. With a chaste kiss and a wave of the flag, good prevailed over evil and we all lived happily ever after.