Bayonne and St. Jean de Luz
We arrived in southern France on a beautiful, sunny morning. Our Captain anchored National Geographic Explorer off of the picturesque town of St. Jean de Luz, and we took our Zodiacs through the breakwater and into the heart of this provincial, seaside village.
Our first adventure of the day was a drive to the historic capital of French Basque country, Bayonne. Situated between two rivers, the Adour and the Nive, Bayonne’s narrow streets make for wonderful exploration. Dominated by the Gothic spires of the Cathédrale Ste. Marie, the city is a lovely place to visit. We broke into small groups to enjoy the jumble of streets and alleyways which give Bayonne its charm, then continued to the cathedral, itself, to see the beautiful stained glass windows. This town is also a center for chocolate making, with a tradition that began in the mid 1500’s. The chocolate is best highlighted in its liquid form, with a concoction that is thick enough to support a standing spoon! Of course, many of us determined that purchasing chocolate to bring home was also in the day’s plan. On our return trip, we stopped for a scenic view at the well-known lighthouse in Biarritz. A playground for the wealthy in the 19th century, Biarritz has retained its reputation as a holiday destination for many Europeans.
We returned to St. Jean de Luz for lunch and more than half of our ship’s contingent decided to stay in town, enjoying the multitudes of cafés and options of outdoor seating. St. Jean de Luz is a popular seaside village, with great examples of Basque architecture, seafood, and style. It is perhaps best known as the wedding location of Louis XIV, the Sun King, and his bride, Maria Theresa in 1660. The beautiful church used for the ceremony is still in existence today, and many of us even came across a modern day wedding in progress. In honor of the historical event, 17th century bakers created an almond-flavored cookie, the famous “Macaron,” which is still found in abundance throughout the town.
St. Jean de Luz remains an active fishing port and the harbor is filled with colorful boats constantly coming and going. The present incarnation of the village is fascinating and many guests joined local guides on a walking tour of the streets. There was abundant free time in the late afternoon to enjoy a café au lait, a local beer, or a walk along the sandy beach bordering the town. We reconvened on deck in the evening for fromage (cheese), pain (bread), and miel (honey) from the local market in town. As the sun waned in the sky, we toasted our last day in France with a glass of wine and a last look at Basque France. Ah, c’est la vie……
