Hornstrandir Peninsula
Today, we visited two locations on the Hornstrandir peninsula. Located in the very dramatic fjords of northwest Iceland, Hornstrandir is one of the more remote and ruggedly picturesque of landscapes. Dominated by high sea cliffs, large valleys and flat topped ridges, it’s intermingled by the occasional white sand beach and lakeside meadow.
Reminiscent of a peaceful deserted island in the south pacific, the gently curving beach at the head of Adalvik Bay was the destination for our morning landing. Extending for over 5 km, the beach soon gives way to sand dunes, beach grasses and wet meadows dominated by sedges, cotton grass, and a variety of mosses and wildflowers.
Quickly accessing an old decommissioned service road to a remnant US radar station, the hike climbs very gently at first to the shoulder of Mount Grasdalafjall. Along the way it transects a variety of marshy meadows. A wide variety of low growing wildflowers were seen including Gentian, Draba, Sorrel, Yellow Rattles, Grass of Parnassus and Northern Green Orchid. Further up-slope as drainage increases, Purple Wild Thyme, Moss Campion, and the occasional Arctic Poppy were seen. Dwarf Lupine, although not yet in bloom, carpet the trail’s edge. On the mountainside itself, low growing Willow and Birch are dwarfed by showy Angelica. Some guests get to enjoy a buffet of sweet tasting blueberry and crowberry along the trail’s edge.
Golden Plover, Pipits, and mated pairs of swans with young are seen by groups focusing on the natural history close to the beach. A loon is heard calling from one of the small nearby ponds.
For the those reaching the heights of Mount Grasdalafjall, there is the reward of scenic views of picturesque Lake Rekavikurvatn and the very dramatic vista of the National Geographic Explorer set in the quiet bay far below. Upon departure from the beach an Icelandic harbour seal plays in the shallows near the boats, as if to say goodbye.
In the afternoon, we land on Vigur Island, renowned for its traditional Eider down production. Vigur, set in the middle of a bay surrounded by a classic landscape sculpted by past glaciers, is a picture postcard of Icelandic life. With colours more reminiscent of a blending of the southwest desert, and a glacier (desert gold, light ice blue and terracotta) small compact houses stand against the skyline of this low windswept island.
Ragnar and another local Icelandic guide give a walking tour of the traditional Eider down production and the day-to-day life of the resident population. A highlight of our visit to Vigur is the opportunity for exceptional bird viewing. Puffins fly low overhead, their colourful beaks loaded with fish. Arctic terns, in addition to providing the wildlife sound track for this visit, dive bomb the occasional guest that gets too close to their hidden chicks.
Carrying sticks with fabric flags to ward off ‘tern attacks’ we walk the sculpted shoreline back to the village. Surrounded by a rugged rock wall, encrusted in age old lichens, potatoes and rhubarb thrive amongst a field of hardy cattle, possibly the only domestic things that will grow in this environment. Tea, coffee and snacks for all offered by the locals! A brisk wind and vigorous sea awaited as we returned to the ship.
Today, we visited two locations on the Hornstrandir peninsula. Located in the very dramatic fjords of northwest Iceland, Hornstrandir is one of the more remote and ruggedly picturesque of landscapes. Dominated by high sea cliffs, large valleys and flat topped ridges, it’s intermingled by the occasional white sand beach and lakeside meadow.
Reminiscent of a peaceful deserted island in the south pacific, the gently curving beach at the head of Adalvik Bay was the destination for our morning landing. Extending for over 5 km, the beach soon gives way to sand dunes, beach grasses and wet meadows dominated by sedges, cotton grass, and a variety of mosses and wildflowers.
Quickly accessing an old decommissioned service road to a remnant US radar station, the hike climbs very gently at first to the shoulder of Mount Grasdalafjall. Along the way it transects a variety of marshy meadows. A wide variety of low growing wildflowers were seen including Gentian, Draba, Sorrel, Yellow Rattles, Grass of Parnassus and Northern Green Orchid. Further up-slope as drainage increases, Purple Wild Thyme, Moss Campion, and the occasional Arctic Poppy were seen. Dwarf Lupine, although not yet in bloom, carpet the trail’s edge. On the mountainside itself, low growing Willow and Birch are dwarfed by showy Angelica. Some guests get to enjoy a buffet of sweet tasting blueberry and crowberry along the trail’s edge.
Golden Plover, Pipits, and mated pairs of swans with young are seen by groups focusing on the natural history close to the beach. A loon is heard calling from one of the small nearby ponds.
For the those reaching the heights of Mount Grasdalafjall, there is the reward of scenic views of picturesque Lake Rekavikurvatn and the very dramatic vista of the National Geographic Explorer set in the quiet bay far below. Upon departure from the beach an Icelandic harbour seal plays in the shallows near the boats, as if to say goodbye.
In the afternoon, we land on Vigur Island, renowned for its traditional Eider down production. Vigur, set in the middle of a bay surrounded by a classic landscape sculpted by past glaciers, is a picture postcard of Icelandic life. With colours more reminiscent of a blending of the southwest desert, and a glacier (desert gold, light ice blue and terracotta) small compact houses stand against the skyline of this low windswept island.
Ragnar and another local Icelandic guide give a walking tour of the traditional Eider down production and the day-to-day life of the resident population. A highlight of our visit to Vigur is the opportunity for exceptional bird viewing. Puffins fly low overhead, their colourful beaks loaded with fish. Arctic terns, in addition to providing the wildlife sound track for this visit, dive bomb the occasional guest that gets too close to their hidden chicks.
Carrying sticks with fabric flags to ward off ‘tern attacks’ we walk the sculpted shoreline back to the village. Surrounded by a rugged rock wall, encrusted in age old lichens, potatoes and rhubarb thrive amongst a field of hardy cattle, possibly the only domestic things that will grow in this environment. Tea, coffee and snacks for all offered by the locals! A brisk wind and vigorous sea awaited as we returned to the ship.
