Sorgforden, Mosselbukta, Moffen Island
Today was spent enjoying the Arctic beauty. The day began early with a 5:30 a.m. announcement of a bear sighting close to Basisodden in Hinlopen Strait. But this wasn’t just any bear sighting; it was 3 females with 3 cubs. They were feeding on a whale carcass. Passengers enjoyed seeing the cubs frolicking while the moms provided swimming lessons and watched over their young.
The seas were glassy as we arrived in Sorgforden, an area rich in history. Sorgfjorden is a small fjord just west of the northern entrance to the Hinlopen Strait. The name means “Fjord of Sorrow” possibly relating to the demise of Dutch whalers. Grave markings were noticed while cruising past the shoreline in Zodiacs. There were reindeer, walrus, kittiwakes, and guillemot spotted. One of the highlights of this excursion was an up-close view of two large walruses resting on sea ice. We were amazed at the beauty of the snow covered mountains and their reflections in the smooth surface of the water.
Kenneth set the stage for the next outing with his interesting presentation, A Year in Paradise—Stories from a Trapper in Svalbard. We hiked through slushy snow around Mosselbukta to reach a hut complete with dog house and drying racks that reminded us of Kenneth’s adventures. New pools of glistening water had formed due to the melting snow. Not only were the sights amazingly beautiful but the sounds of the red-throated loon, and the snow bunting, the only songbird in the Arctic, were something special.
Following the hike many enjoyed the chance to kayak. In an area where the wind and weather are unpredictable we were fortunate to have sunny skies and mild winds. The crystal clear waters allowed us to see to the bottom to admire the algae and rocks. Kayakers enjoyed the close view of the geese on the water.
Only minutes after the kayaking 35 brave souls took a polar plunge. Nobody who plunged regretted their decision to leap into the frigid polar waters. In fact, some participants plunged a total of 3 times.
After an interesting recap including a preview of the video-chronicles prepared by David Pickar we ate another delicious dinner while in route to Moffen Island. Moffen Island is a small, flat island favored by walruses. Approximately 80 walruses were hauled out on the beach. More than half the walruses were exhibiting thigmotactic behavior. Passengers were treated to quite a walrus display.
After an action packed day, we feel fortunate to be able to enjoy the pristine beauty of the Arctic. The day ended with a good feeling about Lindblad and National Geographic being committed to offering expeditions to remote locations while respecting the environment so that many others will have the opportunity to enjoy this beauty in the future.
