Sombrero Chino and Santiago
We’ve had yet another fabulous day in las Lslas Encantadas de Galápagos! We awoke to find the National Geographic Islander at anchor between a small reddish cone that did indeed look like a “Chinese Hat” and the rugged and extensive black lava fields of southeastern Santiago Island. Our first outing after breakfast was a Zodiac ride along the dramatic coast; we found seabirds, iguanas, and a beautiful adult Galápagos hawk. Some of us watched a great blue heron dart and grab, then swallow, several red cardinal fish. A much smaller striated heron stalked silently after Sally Lightfoot crabs. One penguin zipped past us in the water, in a hurry as it chased tiny schooling fish.
Back at the ship we donned our wetsuits, collected out snorkel bags, and headed out for a “mega-snorkel.” The water was a cool 76 degrees and crystal clear and this turned out to be a fantastic outing! Everyone saw many species of schooling fish including the handsome King angels, the gray yellow-tailed razor fish, and hundreds of small red cardinal fish. We were entertained by a few fast moving penguins that whizzed below us and around us zooming after tiny two-inch-long fish. Marine iguanas are hard to locate and photograph underwater but some of our guests watched these unique lizards as they grazed on the submarine algae pastures. There were rays and white-tipped reef sharks and we spent well over an hour snorkeling along until some of us were shivering with cold.
The snorkelers joined us at a lovely, tiny white sand beach where sea lion pups were resting and playing in the surf. A lone oyster catcher was chased off by an aggressive striated heron, and our chilly snorkelers all eventually warmed up in the deliciously hot tropical sun. We were reluctant to leave this picturesque and private beach—after all—when and where does one ever have a beach to oneself these days? Back on the ship we enjoyed a hearty buffet lunch which was interrupted for a short time when I announced “dolphins!” About a dozen bottlenose dolphins were bow riding the ship to the delight of our guests.
The afternoon walk on the huge barren lava fields at Sullivan Bay, Santiago, was more beautiful than one would have guessed a “lava hike” might be. Wonderful patterns and shadows—even a variety of colors in the layers of lava. There were a few pioneer plants but this lava field is only 115 years old so little has yet taken root here. On our way back to the ship we found a small group of penguins that had come ashore for the night. Seeing this cute little fearless birds was a fitting end to a fabulous day!
