Riga, Latvia
Our Baltic exploration continues as we sailed overnight towards a new land – Latvia – and its historic capital city of Riga. During the morning at sea David Barnes helpfully navigated for us the complex history and workings of the European Union, an alien concept for many from non-European political systems. This was followed by a presentation summarising the equally complex prehistory of the Baltic region.
Soon we were approaching the mouth of the River Daugava, and followed this wide waterway for seven miles inland until the city spread itself before us. Since antiquity this thriving trade route has connected travellers with distant places to south and east. The first stop with our local Latvian guides was the Art Nouveau quarter of town, the most extensive and intact example of this exuberant architectural style, gaining it its UNESCO world heritage listing. These tall and elegant apartments were all built in a short period between 1899 and 1919, designed by master architects as such as Mandelstahm, Pçkšçns and Eisenstein, and are constructed of thickly-plastered brick encrusted with moulded stucco ornament in the form of giant faces and fabulous creatures reflecting the international influences which created Riga. Having miraculously survived two world wars and Soviet occupation until 1991, during which numerous families were forced to share one or two rooms, these extraordinary structures are now being fully restored.
Then we explored the Old Town, a maze of wooden, stone and brick shops, houses, churches, street markets and cafes within the confines of the old town walls. The city, with its sheltered natural harbour, had been a Viking trading centre, but in the early years of the 13th century became a fortified enclave with city walls, gates and tower built under Bishop Albert, who landed there for the purposes of conversion in 1200 AD, with 23 ships and 500 Westphalian crusaders. Only one of the towers and one of the gates now survive. From 1282 Riga was also a Hanseatic city.
We next assembled at one of the Guild Halls, where, in muted multi-colored light from the stained glass windows, we were treated to a truly delightful display of Latvian folk culture by the Dzintarinš (Little Amber Pieces) Children’s Dance Troupe – music, songs and dance in traditional Latvian costume and garlands. The charm and natural poise of the young performers were irresistible.
And for a grand finale, it was off to Riga Dom Cathedral for an organ recital. This Lutheran church was first built in 1211 by Bishop Albert, but has been extended in the 14th and 15th centuries into basilica form to become the largest medieval church in the Baltic, with a spire 140 metres high until the fire of 1547. Subsequent additions were in the Baroque style. The cathedral is also undergoing essential renovations, and we sat below its lofty, starkly impressive vaulted ceilings and heard a glorious program of music by J.S. Bach, L. Boëllmann and S. Franck, played by the organist Larisa Bulava. Today Riga filled our senses with its sounds and colour.
