Korcula, Croatia
Early this morning a strong wind blew across the Adriatic Sea as the Sea Cloud began preparations for a morning of sailing. We traveled in waters between the island of Korcula and the Peljesac Peninsula in such strong winds that the only sails lifted were the storm sails, making good speed, unfortunately, in the wrong direction in regards to our afternoon destination. Conditions were so lovely, the itinerary was changed slightly, and we spent the entire morning allowing the wind to take the Sea Cloud on a strong and fast passage along the Croatian coastline. In the late morning our National Geographic Balkan specialist, Grace Fielder, gave a talk entitled “The Fourth Crusade”, pulling together the heavy influence of churches and a myriad of characters from several countries who shaped not only boundaries but greatly changed the history of Western Europe.
After a leisurely lunch the Sea Cloud began her approach towards the island of Korcula. We were approaching the west side of the island and the main port town also called Korcula. The ancient Greeks knew the island as Kirkyra Melaina (Black Korcula or Black Corfu), because of its dense and tall stands of pine trees. A later and more profound influence to this island was the Venetians of Italy who counted this part of Croatia as part of the Venetian Empire from the 14th to the 18th century. This long Italian history has left its mark in the architecture of the main town. The town was designed on a slight hill with a herringbone street pattern, offset and sloped to protect from wind, sun and rain, making for a fascinating stroll for our groups as we made our way from one of the main gates towards St. Mark’s Cathedral in the center of this lovely and very small mediaeval island town. Once our walking tour was complete, we had some free time to explore the tiny alleys that weave in and around the St. Mark’s Cathedral. At 6:00pm we gathered at the summer theatre for a performance of traditional Moreska sward dancing. The Korcula Singing Society, St. Cecily, is the oldest civic singing society in Southern Croatia and was founded in the town of Korcula in 1883. The regulations of the Society are to “ennoble the hearts of the local youth by learning and nursing Croatian folk song, to warm up its feelings towards their own language and customs, to encourage them to keep and defend their people’s sacrosanct principles, to be their own on their native soil, to honor the foreigner by the old Croatian habit as a dear guest.”
Moreska, as the struggle between two opposing armies, was a popular drama and dance during the Renaissance period, especially in the Mediterranean countries. It was performed in elite social circles, at court entertainments and celebrations and at public feasts, especially during the Carnival season. During the next 45 minutes we watched a typical Moreska story unfold between the black and red armies and a princess who had been stolen...heavy swords, stylized dance and intricate fighting continued until the “thieves” were beaten and the princess was returned to her hero, the prince of the Red Army! The sun had set and as the light began to leave our day...the wind went with it! Twilight brought a much gentler breeze, a lovely red sky, (sailors delight) as our tenders returned us all to the waiting Sea Cloud.
Once everyone was on board, the anchor was lifted and slowly we began our passage north towards tomorrow’s destination. The dining room staff had been quite busy during all the ship’s departure preparations. The Lido deck was set for our evening’s dinner under the soft breeze of the evening and the first stars. After yet another lovely dinner our expedition leader came forward and began the customary “sea story” about our evening’s event, listening to the Sea Cloud Shanty Gang. They could be heard preparing; and soon the sound of the accordion could be heard from the Blue Lagoon, as the parade made its way up on the Spanker deck and down the steps onto the Lido deck. Many members of the crew and officers were present, Shanty song books were passed out and everyone burst into song! On this rare occasion, Captain Komakin also allows the crew and officers to step up to the bar and enjoy a drink; much to the delight of everyone one of our guests and traveling companions bought a round of drinks for all the Shanty Singers ending a full day of not only experiencing the diversity of culture in this area of the Dalmatian Coast, but also enjoying the culture of square riggers and the tradition of singing sea shanties!
