West Point & Carcass Islands
The sunrise was spectacular, warm oranges and yellows lighting up the clouds over the many islands that make up the Falkland Islands. The contours etched above the horizon in the morning blaze. It lasts but a moment before the sun hides behind the low grey clouds.
There continue to be many seabirds about the ship – penguins, shearwaters, giant petrels, shags and Black-browed Albatrosses. During breakfast we make our approach to the anchorage off West Point Island.
Soon the Zodiacs are speeding us across the short distance to the jetty where we enjoy a dry landing before setting off on the walk over the island to catch a sight of the Rockhopper Penguins and Black-browed Albatrosses in their breeding grounds. The effort is well worthwhile as we spend the morning enthralled by these birds. No end of words can describe the delicate gentle beauty of the albatrosses as they land and head over to their nests to feed their chicks, whilst overhead they treat us to a flying master class. Then there is the wonderment at the Rockhopper Penguins and their choice of breeding grounds perched at the top of steep cliffs and rock faces. We cannot take in the magnitude of the task every time they must head up, oftentimes from stormy seas, to their nest site and a few days later head down again to face the open seas. They have reason to be so boisterous and vocal!
During lunch we shift our anchorage to Carcass Island. This is a rat free island and as soon as we are ashore it is evident. There are so many smaller birds to be seen. Tussac Birds are found in their scores along the landing beach and after a little while we catch glimpses of Cobb’s Wren, as well as Dark-faced Ground Tyrants and Black-chinned Siskins. A little walk over to Leopard beach brings us up close with hundreds of Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins, many are in full molt, it is after all the end of the breeding season. At the end of the beach a South American Sea Lion has taken a Magellanic Penguin and feasts on the catch. After lingering a little time more we head off along the three mile walk for the settlement and tea.
Once in the farmhouse we are not fully prepared for what greets us, the dining room table groans under the weight of so many delicious cookies and scones topped with fresh jam and whipped cream. All this fare is accompanied by copious amounts of delicious tea. The walk and its length convinces us that we are entitled to enjoy many, many of the different treats which are causing our senses with serious overload; after all it is necessary to make up for the energy shortfall.
It has been a splendid day. These two islands and their owners have been linked and intertwined with the Lindblad story, going all the way back to the early ‘70’s. Indeed it was Lars Eric Lindblad’s vision which set in motion the future development of Expedition Ship tourism not only in these islands but also in other parts of the Falkland Islands. What a privilege it has been to be part of that continued legacy.
