Española Island

The National Geographic Islander’s engines have just been started and the anchor is coming up, we are heading for Baltra tonight and this week’s voyage is over. But I get the definite feeling that this group of guests does not want their trip to end! I am in the staff office, reviewing and reliving the fabulous day we have had, trying to find words to do it justice – but I can barely think because of the excitement and noise level in the lounge! We have had a blast together, we have made new friends, and we have shared absolutely unforgettable experiences.

First up this morning, were the pre-breakfast kayakers. They did not regret rising early as they were escorted by sea lions while they paddled along the rocky coast at Gardner Bay. We had a final snorkel and aquatic dance with the graceful sea lions and then had a glorious time on the gorgeous white sand beach. There were sea lions sleeping and swimming, nursing and cavorting, females, small pups, large one year olds and males. Cheeky mockingbirds, endemic to this island alone in all the world, hopped among us, pecking in the sand, inspecting our water bottles, ever alert for anything edible.

The sun came out, hot for this time of the year, and the water turned turquoise as it lapped the brilliant white beach. No one wanted to leave such a lovely spot; I finally coaxed everyone back to the ship with the promise of jumping from the bridge deck. We leapt and yelled and splashed and swam until it was almost lunch time.

Lunch was not even over – we were just digging into luscious ice cream sundaes that we each had created – when someone yelled out that they had seen a whale off our stern! I asked our Second Officer to turn the ship, hoping that we might have found the first humpbacks of the season. YES! Two humpbacks gave us a marvelous show. They spouted and dove, flashing their flukes. They surfaced off our stern and showed us their long, dark gray backs. We approached them cautiously and they dove below the bow.

Reluctantly we left the whales and continued on towards our anchorage at Punta Suarez on the western end of Española Island. In the cool of mid afternoon we disembarked on a concrete dock for a final walk along a rocky trail. We observed the reddish marine iguanas, larger and more colorful lava lizards and curious mockingbirds that are endemic to this island. We walked among nesting and courting blue-footed and Nazca boobies and enjoyed the blasting of the blow hole. But the highlight of the afternoon was the waved albatross. These large, elegant birds were nesting smack on our path and we were delighted to find several fluffy gray chicks. An amorous pair of albatross danced for us, bobbing their heads comically and bill fencing. As the sunset with streaks of pink and orange, we picked our way over the rocks and caught a Zodiac ride back to the ship.

This evening we are exuberant: a shared a farewell toast with the Captain, dinner, dancing and games and camaraderie in the lounge. One by one we drift off to bed. It has been a magical week in the Encantadas, and a trip of a lifetime for many of us.