Urbina Bay & Punta Moreno, Isabela Island

As we left our calm anchorage early this morning we were searched for cetaceans. The coast of Isabela is cold and rich in nutrients, making it a paradise for marine creatures. Isabela is formed by the union of six shield volcanoes in a “croissant” shape. Landing on the black beach at Urbina Bay, on the skirts of Alcedo Volcano, we had long and short hiking options; almost everybody took the long hikes, of course! The trail led us inland where we experienced the uplift of the coastline that took place in 1954. During just nine hours, three miles of the coastal reef was raised 12 feet above sea level, stranding much of the marine life. We encountered large, disintegrating coral heads far from the shoreline and the old black pebble beach, now high and dry. After the walk we had a delightful time swimming with penguins and snorkeling with a cormorant; we were all completely refreshed by our free time at the black sand beach.

In the afternoon we landed on an unbelievable lava field, a type of basalt that mimics gigantic broken glass. We saw fractures, fissures and collapsed surfaces within this lava field, and cracks that opened instantly during the last stages of the eruption. Luckily, everything was over by the time we got there… Finding brilliant pink flamingos and a frigate bird bathing and drinking in the brackish water lagoon, which appeared like an oasis in the midst of the expansive barren lava, was a pleasant surprise.

The Zodiac ride along the coast was the “cherry on top of the cake” of our wonderful afternoon! Close views of sea lions of all ages and sizes, huge marine iguanas, resting blue-footed boobies, tiny, charming penguins and huge Jasminocereus and Optunia cactus made this yet another exceedingly successful day in the Galápagos.