Española Island

Nine of us rose early this morning and, escorted by Naturalist Alexandra and panguero Max, took off in bright yellow kayaks for an hour’s paddle along the rocky coastline of the southeastern most island, Española. We were quickly joined by frisky sea lions that leapt and frolicked beside us. We discovered a double-decker pair of mating sea turtles and our clear sunny dawn changed in a blink, to a cool, drippy, garua morning.

Following a hearty breakfast (that only the kayakers really deserved…) there were snorkeling options, more kayaking and a visit to a mile long, white sand beach. The final snorkeling experience was fantastic. We were entertained by graceful sea lions and saw many varieties of fish.

On the beach we had time to stroll, relax and study the behavior of the ever present and numerous sea lions. This week the sea lions have begun to group up into aggregates of twenty or so females, who were admired, attended to and defended by large, loud territorial bulls. These beach masters have many months of jealous fighting ahead of them; the breeding season has just begun on Española! The male sea lions have been resting and feeding and are now in prime condition. During the coming months they will not have time either for food or rest, as they will defend their territories day and night. It is both the male himself and the “real estate” that attracts the females, and with twenty or more ladies to watch over and mate with, the males keep busy.

This morning we thoroughly enjoyed watching the largest male patrol from one female group to a second and chase out all the smaller males that had snuck up among the females. Mockingbirds and a cattle egret chased flies among the sea lions and we were reluctant to leave this lovely beach at noon.

The afternoon walk, along a lava boulder trail at Punta Suarez on the northwestern point of Española, was right up there near the top of our best experiences this week. We found several species that inhabit only this island in all the world: a large, colorful lava lizard, a reddish marine iguana, the spunky and curious Española mocking bird, and the elegant waved albatross. We watched Nazca and blue-footed boobies whistle, point skyward and display for a mate. We were thrilled to see pairs of albatross performing their elaborate and amusing courtship dance, and all of us were sorry to see this day, and our fascinating voyage through the Enchanted Islands of Galápagos, come to an end.