Bartolomé & Santiago Islands
Over flat, calm water the Zodiacs went to the base of the small mountain of Bartolomé Island. The sun had just a half-an-hour before rising over a low bank of clouds in the east. The rose-colored light reflected off the tuff cone across the strait on Santiago. A cloudless sky promised brightness and heat for the morning.
The climate may be changing this month, but the draw of the water is constant. After a visit over the sand dunes to see the southern beach of the island, practically everyone returned for a swim or snorkel, hoping against hope for a glimpse of the elusive (sometimes) Galápagos penguin underwater – and found them picking off anchovies! In fact found them in the company of a white-tipped reef shark!
Puerto Egas, James Bay, on the western side of Santiago Island was originally named for a man from Guayaquil who opened a salt-extraction company there in the 1960’s. Just two years later he and his business had left. A few remnants were left behind, but today with the entire island declared “goat-free”, the island is quickly recuperating. This season’s heavy rains will give a boost to the vegetation so depleted by goats in the past. Ask any Charles Darwin Station personnel or National Park warden who has spent time lately on James, it is now difficult walking to get through thick brush, where previously open fields were the norm.
Santiago still has giant tortoises, and one day hopefully soon, we will start to see more of them in the lowlands, perhaps even on the trail!
For this afternoon though, the last die-hard snorkelers joined the walkers in the late afternoon light to visit the shoreline of James Bay. It was a visit of all we have seen this week on the National Geographic Polaris, a little bit of everything: boobies diving off-shore, pelicans cruising overhead, oystercatchers on the lava, herons, frigates watching from on high, sea lions resting on shore, fur seals hiding in shady crevasses, and even a marine turtle in the grotto. The sun set on a very, very, special place in our hearts.
Over flat, calm water the Zodiacs went to the base of the small mountain of Bartolomé Island. The sun had just a half-an-hour before rising over a low bank of clouds in the east. The rose-colored light reflected off the tuff cone across the strait on Santiago. A cloudless sky promised brightness and heat for the morning.
The climate may be changing this month, but the draw of the water is constant. After a visit over the sand dunes to see the southern beach of the island, practically everyone returned for a swim or snorkel, hoping against hope for a glimpse of the elusive (sometimes) Galápagos penguin underwater – and found them picking off anchovies! In fact found them in the company of a white-tipped reef shark!
Puerto Egas, James Bay, on the western side of Santiago Island was originally named for a man from Guayaquil who opened a salt-extraction company there in the 1960’s. Just two years later he and his business had left. A few remnants were left behind, but today with the entire island declared “goat-free”, the island is quickly recuperating. This season’s heavy rains will give a boost to the vegetation so depleted by goats in the past. Ask any Charles Darwin Station personnel or National Park warden who has spent time lately on James, it is now difficult walking to get through thick brush, where previously open fields were the norm.
Santiago still has giant tortoises, and one day hopefully soon, we will start to see more of them in the lowlands, perhaps even on the trail!
For this afternoon though, the last die-hard snorkelers joined the walkers in the late afternoon light to visit the shoreline of James Bay. It was a visit of all we have seen this week on the National Geographic Polaris, a little bit of everything: boobies diving off-shore, pelicans cruising overhead, oystercatchers on the lava, herons, frigates watching from on high, sea lions resting on shore, fur seals hiding in shady crevasses, and even a marine turtle in the grotto. The sun set on a very, very, special place in our hearts.
