Fox Creek & the Inian Islands

Idaho inlet, a protected cove at the northern end of Chichagof Island, is a sea otter sanctuary of sorts. It is either that or a kind of exile for male sea otters unsuccessful in acquiring a mate in a more prime sea otter habitat, the kelp forests along the outer coast. As the National Geographic Sea Lion slowly headed south into the inlet, a number of these defeated males lazily rested on their backs. Upon our approach many of them dove down out of sight. A few, however, lingered long enough for us to get good looks.

After breakfast, we more intimately experienced this otherworldly expanse of misty mountains and gray waters. The morning activities consisted of kayaking or cruising in Zodiacs around Shaw Island and hiking along Fox Creek. On the water, we encountered more sea otters twisting and turning among the kelp. On land, we were reminded of the very ominous presence of brown bears on Chichagof Island. Clawed trees and the perennial tracks of bears were an indication that this was and, perhaps, still is a well-used habitat.

This is prime bear habitat because of the salmon stream, Fox Creek. It is a wonderful late summer source of food for the bears. Though late in the season, pink salmon continued to make their way up this narrow stream. In calm and protected enclaves pairs of these exhausted fish were seen spawning. Their carcasses were also strewn about the shoreline and birds of all kinds congregated in nearby trees. Bald eagles, common ravens, northwestern crows and even a belted king fisher were among those who awaited this feeding opportunity.

Zodiac cruises through the Inian Islands and along the outer coast was our afternoon activity. Swells caused by ocean currents intermingled with the opposite flowing currents of the Inside Passage made for exciting Zodiac cruises. This was Alaska at its finest in demonstrating the richness of these waters. A mother humpback whale and her calf gracefully crested the water just beside the Zodiacs. We slowly traveled in her wake and along the way encountered Steller’s sea lions. Many of them were feeding and a few shot up out of the water with salmon in their mouths. In flinging the fish side to side, scraps would slough off and be voraciously scooped up by hungry gulls. Of the quieter denizens of this island refuge, sea otters and even a lone river otter poked its head up out of the kelp-covered water. Harbor porpoise, usually more illusive, ignored our presence as well, for the most part, and also energetically fed at this seafood buffet of incoming fish.

Though it was difficult to leave such a lively place, we headed back to the ship. The rain subsided and, again, the land and sea became quiet and peaceful.