Pavlof Harbor and Chatham Strait
This morning many of us aboard National Geographic Sea Bird awoke slightly earlier to make our way to the bow in the hopes of seeing humpback whales. Our Captain had just steered us into Tenakee Inlet, along Chichagof Island, where cooperative feeding behaviors were rumored from the previous day. Against a backdrop of high-ceilinged cloud layers of white and light gray, with bits of blue peeking through, we were rewarded with multiple whale spouts in the distance, and as we got closer… yes! The whales were engaged in searching and sometimes finding the right fishing conditions to complete several rounds of bubble-net feeding, then breaking off as they searched for prime conditions again.
Our attention was then drawn to the beach where we saw two brown bears – possibly a mother and older cub, and then a third, rustling through the tall grass. We stayed and viewed them for a while, went to the dining room for a quick breakfast, then back up to the bow to rejoin the whales. Nine flukes dove down, sometimes bursting up in a cooperative feeding frenzy, sometimes coming back up to breathe after unsuccessful attempts to corral the fish. The atmosphere on the ship was of attentive watchfulness, easy camaraderie, and sheer delight at the majesty and resourcefulness of these giant creatures.
Finally we tore ourselves away from the whales and moved on to Pavlof Harbor for an abbreviated visit to a salmon stream. As kayakers and Zodiac cruisers rounded the bend our hopes were again rewarded – two brown bears stood fishing in the middle of the high water stream. We watched silently spellbound as these (possibly sibling?) bears chased and caught and ate their salmon lunch. A hesitant third bear appeared from the forest, and after carefully assessing the scene, made its way along the water’s edge, giving wide berth to the other two. This bear went to the fish ladder, dove into the nearby roiling waters, came out with a fish in its jaws, climbed the fish ladder and disappeared into the forest on the opposite bank. Wow – what purpose, power, and grace!
Again tearing ourselves away from this amazingly exhilarating scene, we returned to the ship for our own lunch, and to begin making our way down Chatham Strait. Our National Geographic rep, Flip Nicklin, had barely begun his talk on whales when the radio crackled from the bridge… “Black and Ehites.” Killer whales off the bow!
A group of probably resident killer whales – eight or nine by count including a few calves – and a male/female pair slightly separate. Naturalists surmised this was a meeting of two resident pods. Like humans these animals don’t breed within their own family system, so the meeting of two groups is an opportunity for socializing and mating. Though we didn’t see the “Pink Floyd,” this male/female pair was clearly playing with one another, and with us on the ship. They passed underneath and in front of National Geographic Sea Bird over half a dozen times, twisting and turning, sometimes slapping the water with tails, half-breaching, and spy-hopping.
The larger grouping continued to travel together, with playful activity of tail slaps, twisting and spy-hopping of the calves. Both groups went right through seaweed patches and brought tails out of the water draped with long lines of kelp. How fun! Were they purposely entertaining us? What a joy to watch these creatures at play!
Hard to believe this all happened in one day. I think we will all sleep well after such adrenaline surges.
