Sea Lions of the Inian Islands
Icy Straight and Cross Sound are some of the most spectacular parts of Southeast Alaska. Exposed to the open ocean, they are pounded by winter waves and sculpted into impressive scenery. Better yet, the constant swirling of tidal currents stirs the ocean here into productive overdrive. Many exciting sea creatures gather to enjoy the resultant feast.
We awoke in Idaho Inlet, a deep notch rent into Chichagof Island’s northern coast. This inlet is a favorite of sea otters, and we saw many around us. Ever ravenous, the otters were busy diving, likely for clams, their local favorite.
We anchored in a protected cove of George Island. Quiet today, George Island once literally hummed with activity as boats and PBY aircraft supplied the island, which was manned in World War II. Walkers enjoyed cliff-side views on the way to a large gun mounted to protect Southeast Alaska from Japanese attack. Meanwhile, kayakers paddled the rocky nooks and crannies of the island. Others explored by Zodiac. They found sea otters toting their hefty pups, noisy oystercatchers, and waves sloshing around a beautiful sea-arch.
After lunch we went ashore at Elfin Cove. This tiny town has a boardwalk mainstreet, and nearly everyone’s “family car” is a fishing boat. It was fascinating to see such an unusual place and to imagine living in so isolated a watery hamlet.
Later in the afternoon we repositioned to the nearby Inian Islands and again boarded Zodiacs to explore. The Inians are a scattering of islets, home to sea creatures impressive in size and variety. Most evident were the sea lions. Steller sea lions are the largest in the world. Massive, blond and with throaty roars, they well deserve the name “lion.” We saw great bulls, reclining in dignified solitude. Often they struck regal poses, and barely deigned to notice us. Other lions lay in indiscriminate heaps, using each other as pillows, mattresses or pathways. The contortions of these sloppy aggregations are always accompanied by much caterwauling and bickering. We also saw sea lions in the water. It was amazing to see how even the most hulking of these beasts are transformed, in their element, to creatures of extraordinary grace and agility. We saw ‘lions munching down fish, often accompanied by screeching gulls looking for tidbits.
At last, after dinner, we visited another spot in Icy Strait which is famous for wildlife. Off Point Adolphus we watched whales scattered all around the ship, sometimes feeding in cooperative lines.
After a day spent in Icy Straight and Cross Sound, all agreed that this is one of the most remarkable parts of a land filled with superlatives.
