Bonanza Bay and Los Islotes
The National Geographic Sea Bird rounded the rocky southeast shoreline of Isla Espiritu Santo just before breakfast, and an immense beach appeared. The white-sand crescent embraced a vivid blue bay where the ship’s anchor dropped a few minutes later. This idyllic spot was the focus of the morning landing on Isla Espiritu Santo, where beachcombers wandered, and others set off on naturalist-led walks. It was impossible to overlook the beautiful shells, the skeletons of porcupine fish and other beach treasures. Those who climbed up the slopes gained fine views of the bay. The site of our landing is geologically of interest, because it lies along a fault with granitic rocks on one side and volcanics on the other. The colors of these two very different rock types are conspicuously distinct even from a distance. In addition, old sea floor material is exposed here, so ancient shells are scattered about the landscape some distance from today’s intertidal area. Many turkey vultures stood on the sand either tugging on a carcass or waiting for a chance to displace another individual. A marlin, or what remained of one, attracted the birds for a welcome feast. They are named for the naked red head and neck, similar to that of a turkey. Some perched elsewhere, sunning in the cool morning light or waiting for updrafts to develop over the warming island. One of them just didn’t look quite right. Upon closer inspection, its plumage was only partly black, although the red head and dark eyes looked quite normal. Most of the feathers were white as in the photo. It was not an albino, but was an exciting find.
To reach Los Islotes where we planned to spend the rest of the day, the ship needed to reposition to the north. On the way, we encountered a group of long-beaked common dolphins and watched their antics until lunchtime. The officers resumed our course and headed for “the islets,” where California sea lions haul out to rest and socialize. Later in the year this becomes a rookery where pups are born. Snorkeling came first, to take advantage of the mid-day sunlight. Schools of silvery fish danced at the surface, while transparent comb jellies transited among them. These organisms, known as ctenophores, do not sting. Lines of cilia propel them and at the same time emit waves of iridescent colors. Sea lions swam circles around the clumsy humans, gracefully sweeping their front flippers like powerful aquatic wings.
The late-afternoon light was glorious for Zodiac cruises. Blue-footed and brown boobies, frigatebirds, a great blue heron and other seabirds wheeled overhead or perched on very white rocks. California sea lions struggled for the best sunbathing spot or relaxed on their sun-warmed perches. A few youngsters, about 6 months old, investigated the Zodiacs. The whiskered faces peered at us through big eyes, and then quickly disappeared beneath the surface. The sun sank soon after our return to the ship for a festive New Year’s Eve.
A Mexican fiesta dinner seemed the perfect meal for this special evening. Following dinner, we gathered for the smashing of a piñata. It was great fun to first learn more about this tradition and then to let the young travelers on board try their luck at whacking the elusive piñata while blind-folded. Eventually, the candy treats were scattered in all directions, and eager hands quickly grabbed the bounty. A champagne toast to the New Year took place a bit earlier than midnight, but it seemed appropriate after an active day.
