Sand Dollar Beach, Hull Canal
As the sun rose in the eastern sky, the National Geographic Sea Bird rocked gently on her anchor. A very light breeze filled the sky as clouds moved from soft pink to deep red-orange. The light and color changed by the minute, filling the sky, while many of us watched from the decks, catching each color change as it hit the water, and fog blanketed sections of the island to the west. Flocks of birds began heading out to sea for their morning breakfast, as many guests on the National Geographic Sea Bird headed into the dining room for their breakfast. Our first day in Baja California Sur was beginning with a phenomenal display of natural beauty, as sunlight decorated both land and sea and brought warmth to all.
After breakfast and the customary drills of the first day at sea, we gathered on the aft 200 deck, ready to go ashore and explore Isla Magdalena, one of the three barrier islands that protects and helps create the calm waters of Bahia Magdalena. Once ashore, we were divided into several groups ready to make a leisurely crossing of three fourth’s mile to the Pacific Ocean and a large crescent beach called Bahia Santa Maria. Natural history, photographic and aerobic walkers all made the crossing, enjoying closer looks at dew-covered flowers, a sand dune world of animal tracks, middens of ancient shells, a wayward hare, and the lovely songs of myriad land birds.
Views of the Pacific Ocean greeted everyone who crested the last hill and once on the hard packed sand beach, sand dollars were admired, photographed and collected for a natural still life. Hermit crabs, small burrowing clams, and sea worms all were found, watched and added into photos. All too soon it was time to make the return walk to our landing site and waiting Zodiacs. As our shuttles approached the National Geographic Sea Bird we could smell the wonderful lunch that was being prepared for our midday meal.
After yet another fortification our group adjourned to the bow for the remainder of the afternoon as the National Geographic Sea Bird made her way 40 miles north through the Hull Canal along the western side of Isla Magdalena. Toward the end of our afternoon cruise our first California grey whales were spotted. During the next two hours 10 singles and 22 pairs of cow/calf grey whales were sighted and logged into a marine mammal data sheet kept by our Natural History staff.
Approximately nine miles from the northern tip of Isla Magdalena and the northern entrance to the Pacific Ocean, our Captain set the anchor at La Florida, a well-known nursery area for grey whales. With great anticipation, we made our way to the forward lounge where a presentation on grey whales was about to begin, getting us all ready for the next two days and our exploration into the world of another species.
As the afternoon wind died down, and the sun moved rapidly west to sunset, conversation revolved around the coming days...trying to put aside expectations, we headed for our beds, dreams of whale blows and the watery world underneath us rocking all inhabitants of the National Geographic Sea Bird gently to sleep. Outside in the darkness, blows of grey whales could be heard….their world so different from ours….tomorrow these two worlds would meet briefly, in this unique ecosystem affectionately called “a desert by the sea,” and we will be in the presence of one of its inhabitants, the grey whale, often called the desert whale…
