Barro Colorado Island and the Panama Canal
The seagoing movement of humans and goods has always determined the history of humankind, and Panama has always been defined by its geography, particularly its narrow distance across it from sea to sea. Viewed more like a barrier than anything else, the isthmus became nonetheless a crossroad of commerce and trade, both merchandise and people traversed this narrow neck of land; first on foot, then by mules, then by train, and by a network of roads and finally by the creation of the Panama Canal. First the Spanish, then the English, and finally the French and Americans set their minds on defeating this impenetrable land; not only by fighting jungles and mountains, but by learning to survive unexpected threats, including a deadly mosquito. Last night we were facing the result of their determination. We were facing one of mankind’s most incredible achievements, one of the world’s largest construction jobs.
We began our journey last night, as soon as we set foot on the National Geographic Sea Lion. We were hardly on board for long before the Panama Canal Pilot showed up to take us through the canal. We left the dock and headed into Colon Harbour, where we reached the entrance to the Gatun Locks. Towering lights and what seemed to be giant cement walls led us through the narrow chambers of the path between the seas, to fulfill our transit from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean.
Once through the locks, our first official day began just off our anchoring site at Barro Colorado Island. This man-made island has been a biological reserve since 1923, not long after the valley was flooded to build the Gatun Lake. A new era of research and exploration of the Neotropics began that year. Due to the continuing protection and biological interest in the area, BCI is now one of the most studied sites in the world’s tropics. Its fame increased in 1946 when it became a bureau of the Smithsonian Institution, and since then renowned scientists such as Alexander, Carpenter, Eisenmann, Fairchild, Skutch, Standley and Zetek, have walked its trails.
We are the only cruise boat that gets the opportunity to explore the island’s trails and coastline, and we always take advantage of it. With pants tucked into their boots, the walkers explored the forest from underneath the canopy, while the Zodiac cruisers preferred the bright green edge of the former hillside. Whichever activity we chose, stories of monkeys, birds, leaf cutter ants, army ants, Cuipo trees and many more remain in our memory forever.
Our final Panama Canal Pilot came during the afternoon to help us finalize our journey across the isthmus. Spanish conquistadors, English buccaneers, French and American entrepreneurs were just a few of the people who tried to conquer and exploit Panama’s jungles, its reluctance to be broken has given this part of the globe an aura of adventure that remains to this day.
