Santorini
An island of extremes, Santorini is a highlight for any visit to the Cyclades, indeed, for any visit to Greece. As part of the Hellenic Volcanic Arc, the Santorini that we see today was created in a cataclysmic eruption of the ancient island of Thera, in approximately 1627 B.C. Sailing into the north entrance to the caldera at sunrise, we were immediately impressed by the sheer magnitude of what we saw. As one guest mentioned, “this makes Crater Lake look like a bathtub”! The 10 km wide caldera is now rimmed by three islands – Thera, Thirassia and Aspro Nisi – with 2 new-ish lava islands in the center – Nea and Palaia Kameni.
We sailed past 1000 foot-high cliffs, composed almost entirely of volcanic ash, and other material ejected during the eruption. These layers of black, rust, bronze and white are of varying thicknesses and eroded to different degrees. We tried to imagine the jet of hot gases and pumice blocks that are estimated to have been ejected over 20 miles into the atmosphere, and the collapse of the magma chamber below us, that allowed the sea to rush in and create the caldera within which we were sailing. Mind-boggling is the term that immediately comes to mind!
Just after breakfast, we boarded a local tender boat to begin our exploration of this fascinating (and popular!) island. We were fortunate, though, that there were no large cruise ships, so we were able to explore in relative peace. Arriving at the small port of Athinios, we boarded buses and drove the lower road to the extreme north end of the island. Passing vineyards and pistachio groves, we saw how the east side of the island slopes gently to the sea. Arriving at the small town of Oia, we set out in search of perfect photos and perfect souvenirs, strolling and shopping for the morning.
In the late morning, we returned to our buses and drove to the extreme southern part of the island, for a wonderful lunch with a phenomenal view. Restaurant Aeolus is situated right on the rim of the caldera, so we were able to see the entire lay of the land, while enjoying local Assyrtiko wine and fabulous Santorinian specialties. After lunch we boarded our buses one last time, for the ride back to the island’s principal town of Firá. Here, we climbed the hill to the wonderful little archaeological museum, and then continued into the town’s labyrinth of shops and restaurants, before descending the small port below. Most chose to ride the cable car down, but a few intrepid guests opted to ride the mules down. A short tender ride back to Panorama, and we were back in the air-conditioned comfort of our home away from home.
Conditions proved ideal for an impromptu swim stop, in the dramatic anchorage between the two lava islands. After the heat and dust of the day, the water felt incredibly refreshing, and the “swimming pool” was nearly full! Geothermal activity warms the water slightly, so even those who have found the Aegean too cool for their tastes were delighted. After our swim, we raised anchor and set sail for the small island of Folegandros, where we docked for an after dinner stroll and a quiet night in a tiny Cycladic port.
