The first name ever given to this remote group of islands in the middle of the Pacific was the "Encantadas," or Enchanted Isles. Early sailors were often baffled, as although they were seemingly speeding ahead with wind in their sails the islands never seemed to get any closer! Galapagos thus earned the reputation of being magical, floating isles, often disappearing in dense, swirling mists. This morning, as we approached Isabela, the dense fog would momentarily part, allowing us tantalizing glimpses of the towering volcanoes. Later on in the day the mists rose, revealing the western islands in all their glory.