Hood River and The Dalles

Light rain – known as “Oregon sunshine” – accompanied the Sea Bird through the week’s first lock and dam experience. Bonneville Dam, the Columbia’s first major dam (1935) and the only West Coast dam on the National Historic Register, attracted virtually every guest to the outside rails. While the historian explained the locking process, huge gates swung open and then closed; water poured in under the hull; the vessel rose upward. After maneuvering into the dock below the picturesque town of Hood River, Oregon, guests boarded buses for a ride on Sam Hill’s meandering and scenic Columbia River highway. The destination was a hike over a portion of that venerable road leading to the recently uncovered Mosier tunnel. Hikers were surrounded by basalt sculptures, miniature oak trees, deer, and vistas over the river.

Part one of a two part discussion about Lewis & Clark was hosted by the ship’s historian. Jefferson, imperialism, the Louisiana Purchase, and competing 17th and 18th century national interests were highlighted. Guests asked questions before breaking for a satisfying chili, salad and cheese sandwich lunch. Guests were briefed about the afternoon’s outdoor and indoor activities.

After an hour of exercise, guests boarded the buses and traveled eastward to Rowena Crest – a 360 degree vista looking down on the old highway’s hairpin turns. The abutments, bridges and guard rails lovingly created by Italian stonemasons in 1914-1916 looked vibrant, solid and solemn as ever. After enjoying stunning views, guests continued on their eastern journey to the Columbia River Discovery Center and its twin Wasco County Museum near The Dalles, Oregon. Complementing the cruise’s Lewis & Clark theme the museum featured new exhibits and films about the Corps of Discovery, along with its impressive Oregon Trail and river projects. The gift store at this hilltop center stocks food and other souvenirs from the rich Oregon larder on land and in the water.

Upon returning to the ship at The Dalles, the hotel manager laid out fruit delicacies from the rich Hood River Valley. Winter pears and ripe nectarines, among other orchard goodies, helped guests appreciate eastern Washington’s and Oregon’s horn of plenty. Within an hour the Sea Bird was heading into the The Dalles Dam and lock.

Native pictographs and petroglyphs on basalt walls were shown to guests as the vessel moved upriver. Many of these ancient, mysterious designs were found near Celilo Falls, once the greatest native fishing ground in the Pacific Northwest, now inundated by waters behind The Dalles Dam.