George Island, Elfin Cove and Icy Strait, Alaska

Soft rain and cloud cover failed to discourage guests from exploring craggy George Island. Zodiacs circled the island while hikers took to meandering trails with naturalists and historians. The island was named in 1880 by W. H. Dall of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, likely for Britain’s George V. The trail – really an old bear path – led to a large U.S. Navy gun named “Brigadier,” that was manned during World War II by a U.S. Army unit. “Brigadier” never fired a shell in anger, but was part of the critical, belated defenses, mostly in the Aleutian Islands, to counter Japanese incursions.

Motoring just a short distance after lunch, the Sea Lion docked in Elfin Cove. This picturesque fishing village surrounds a chain of three bays, often referred to as “gunkholes.” The boardwalk-rimmed town (year-round population: 60) is snuggled into the north end of Chichagof Island, named for an officer in the Russian Imperial Navy – part of that nation’s 100-plus-year presence in the North Pacific.

Next, the Sea Lion made its way through Icy Strait. Many believe that Great Britain’s Capt. George Vancouver named the Strait in 1792 for the ice choking the bay originating at Grand Pacific glacier. Grand Pacific eventually retreated to reveal Glacier Bay, not seen by Vancouver, but described 100 years later by American naturalist and “glaciologist” John Muir.

Before dinner, breeching and feeding humpback whales offered a spectacular show for two hours in the Strait – a perfect end to a full day. Guests and staff alike were on a high while observing the fascinating behaviors of this great animal.