Red Bluff Bay
We were awakened this morning by Michelle, our Expedition Leader, in the heart of Red Bluff Bay. This beautiful inlet on the east coast of Baranof Island could hardly be seen until we passed through the narrow and twisting entrance. The mists that hung on the steep mountainside and the waterfalls cascading from unseen lakes gave the distinct feeling that we had entered an oriental painting.
During breakfast, the Sea Lion made her way across Chatham Strait to the Southwest tip of Admiralty Island where we spent time with humpback whales. About a dozen whales were spread over a large area, feeding in the nutrient rich waters at the confluence of Chatham Strait and Frederick Sound. After a short time we were able to identify individuals by the patterns on the underside of their tail flukes and watch groups coalesce and disperse in some sort of rhythm that we don’t understand. Just listening to the sound of their breathing across the glassy, windless sea was such a joy and then to see them so close and so majestic, as they slipped weightlessly into the depths, connected us forever with these leviathans.
Before leaving the area, we dropped by Yasha Island for a look at over a hundred Steller Sea Lions hauled out on the rocky shore. Some of the males were huge, even though they are not yet tough enough to be part of the breeding population that are currently on territories on the outer coast of Southeast Alaska. Fortunately the Steller Sea Lions of this area are actually increasing their numbers while over the rest of their range their numbers have tragically dropped 90% in the past 30 years. Although we do not know the exact reasons for their population decline, human over-fishing of their food resources is no doubt a major part of the problem.
The Sea Lion then moved up the west coast of Admiralty Island to look for more marine mammals and did we ever find some! Our captain had contacted the research vessel, John Cobb, and their research team was working with a large group of Killer Whales. They invited us to come take a look and we happily did so. Two transient groups, AM and AQ pods, had joined together to make up a group of about 30 whales milling near the coastline. As our officers maneuvered the ship quietly toward the whales, a subgroup of 7 came out to greet us with a pass under the bow and 5 departing flipper slaps. As they slid under the bow, we could see their entire bodies through the brilliant, clear water. What a treat! We spent over an hour with these incredible sea creatures and also had a chance to talk with the researchers about their work before heading off for more adventures.
The remainder of our day was spent hiking in the dense and lush forest along the salmon stream leading to Lake Eva. Some early pink salmon and dolly varden were in the stream ready to complete their life drama – to spawn and to die, and the surrounding forests were full of secrets just waiting to be told. We heard a host of plant stories and animal stories before returning to a grand wine tasting aboard our little ship.
This was only our first day aboard the Sea Lion, but one we would never forget.
We were awakened this morning by Michelle, our Expedition Leader, in the heart of Red Bluff Bay. This beautiful inlet on the east coast of Baranof Island could hardly be seen until we passed through the narrow and twisting entrance. The mists that hung on the steep mountainside and the waterfalls cascading from unseen lakes gave the distinct feeling that we had entered an oriental painting.
During breakfast, the Sea Lion made her way across Chatham Strait to the Southwest tip of Admiralty Island where we spent time with humpback whales. About a dozen whales were spread over a large area, feeding in the nutrient rich waters at the confluence of Chatham Strait and Frederick Sound. After a short time we were able to identify individuals by the patterns on the underside of their tail flukes and watch groups coalesce and disperse in some sort of rhythm that we don’t understand. Just listening to the sound of their breathing across the glassy, windless sea was such a joy and then to see them so close and so majestic, as they slipped weightlessly into the depths, connected us forever with these leviathans.
Before leaving the area, we dropped by Yasha Island for a look at over a hundred Steller Sea Lions hauled out on the rocky shore. Some of the males were huge, even though they are not yet tough enough to be part of the breeding population that are currently on territories on the outer coast of Southeast Alaska. Fortunately the Steller Sea Lions of this area are actually increasing their numbers while over the rest of their range their numbers have tragically dropped 90% in the past 30 years. Although we do not know the exact reasons for their population decline, human over-fishing of their food resources is no doubt a major part of the problem.
The Sea Lion then moved up the west coast of Admiralty Island to look for more marine mammals and did we ever find some! Our captain had contacted the research vessel, John Cobb, and their research team was working with a large group of Killer Whales. They invited us to come take a look and we happily did so. Two transient groups, AM and AQ pods, had joined together to make up a group of about 30 whales milling near the coastline. As our officers maneuvered the ship quietly toward the whales, a subgroup of 7 came out to greet us with a pass under the bow and 5 departing flipper slaps. As they slid under the bow, we could see their entire bodies through the brilliant, clear water. What a treat! We spent over an hour with these incredible sea creatures and also had a chance to talk with the researchers about their work before heading off for more adventures.
The remainder of our day was spent hiking in the dense and lush forest along the salmon stream leading to Lake Eva. Some early pink salmon and dolly varden were in the stream ready to complete their life drama – to spawn and to die, and the surrounding forests were full of secrets just waiting to be told. We heard a host of plant stories and animal stories before returning to a grand wine tasting aboard our little ship.
This was only our first day aboard the Sea Lion, but one we would never forget.
