Boca de Soledad

Gray whales abound at this northern entrance to Bahia Magdalena. Today was the first day of the Sea Lion's gray whale watching season, and it was fantastic. According to the lancheros, local guides who accompany us in our Zodiacs, the first two gray whales arrived in early December, and there are now approximately 30 adult whales in this calving area of Baja California's southernmost gray whale lagoon. Some of the females are visibly pregnant, while others have very young calves swimming close beside. We spent our entire day with these slow-swimming giants.

Our first round of Zodiac cruises set out in cool Pacific morning fog, so we let our eyes adjust to the gray water meeting the damp, gray sky, and our ears help guide us toward the sound of the whale blows. We had little trouble locating our quarry, and in some cases, the whales located us! By mid-morning the fog had lifted, revealing clear skies and calm seas, and gray whales frolicking in the Boca. Cameras whirred and clicked as we tried to capture images of a 40 foot long animal raise its entire head above the water in a spyhop, or launch its bulk into the air in a full-body breach. By the afternoon, a light breeze had developed and the ebb tide had turned to flood, so we turned with it to search more to the south. There were numerous sightings of large solitary females, pairs of adolescent animals, a lone juvenile, possibly born last year, and a few mothers with their calves. Beachgoers were even able to watch a lone gray whale log at the surface just a short distance offshore! By late afternoon, a thin cloud cover had developed and the breeze freshened a bit for our last Zodiac cruise of the day. As squadrons of pelicans glided to their evening's roost and the clouds above began to show the pink of sunset, we were surprised again by the trust and curiosity these whales displayed as they swam next to and directly beneath our Zodiacs. Smiles, and the glow of a crimson sunset lit our faces at the end of this spectacular day.