Boca de Soledad, Magdalena Bay
Dawn this morning found the Sea Lion at anchor near the Boca de Soledad surrounded by the sounds of California gray whale blows. All early risers were treated to the almost full moon low on the horizon in the west and the sun rising above low cloud banks to the east. Whales were surfacing and spy-hopping all around our quiet and secluded anchorage! And then the fog rolled in on little cat feet, completely cutting visibility to a mere 50 yards around the boat.
Our first Zodiac whale watch excursion left the Sea Lion in the eerie light. Visibilty waxed and waned as the fog battled with the sun for possession of the air around us. Far more useful to us than our sight in finding the whales was our hearing, and we listened for the tell-tale blows. No more than 300 yards from the Sea Lion we encounter our first group of whales. The slashing of flukes and the roiling of the water lead us to believe that we were witness to the beginnings of gray whale courtship behavior. Six adult whales were vying for the best position possible, totally oblivious to our presence. Tail slashes, bubble blasts, and loud blows were accompanied by spy-hops and head lunges. In the surreal light we felt as if we were part of the ritual! We were mesmerized as these huge leviathans acted out the parts so vital for the procreation of the species. All on board were privy to front row seats for the play!
Our group of whales finally dispersed, only to be replaced by yet another group. Then a third, and finally even one more. Each group of four to six adults intent on their own passionate role in this wonderful drive to pass on their genes to future generations. Our local Mexican pangero Nestor was as excited as any of the visiting nortenos. In his 22 years in the lagoon he had never seen this kind of amorous action! Our morning literally flew by in all the excitement.
Feeling totally elated and satiated at the same time our experience was just coming to an end. Mother nature cooperated to help us find the Sea Lion by allowing the fog to burn off and leave no trace of its' earlier grip on our surroundings. Exhuberent conversation filled the boat, in both the Spanish and English varieties! As if all the action wasn't enough to remind us of the reason we had journeyed so far to this remote part of Baja, an adult gray whale chose to breach three times just in front of our bow! Thirty-five tons of whale nearly clearing the water completely, only to come crashing down into the lagoon with a resounding crash and HUGE splash! Our tour was complete. Quite simply put, it doesn't get any better than this!
Dawn this morning found the Sea Lion at anchor near the Boca de Soledad surrounded by the sounds of California gray whale blows. All early risers were treated to the almost full moon low on the horizon in the west and the sun rising above low cloud banks to the east. Whales were surfacing and spy-hopping all around our quiet and secluded anchorage! And then the fog rolled in on little cat feet, completely cutting visibility to a mere 50 yards around the boat.
Our first Zodiac whale watch excursion left the Sea Lion in the eerie light. Visibilty waxed and waned as the fog battled with the sun for possession of the air around us. Far more useful to us than our sight in finding the whales was our hearing, and we listened for the tell-tale blows. No more than 300 yards from the Sea Lion we encounter our first group of whales. The slashing of flukes and the roiling of the water lead us to believe that we were witness to the beginnings of gray whale courtship behavior. Six adult whales were vying for the best position possible, totally oblivious to our presence. Tail slashes, bubble blasts, and loud blows were accompanied by spy-hops and head lunges. In the surreal light we felt as if we were part of the ritual! We were mesmerized as these huge leviathans acted out the parts so vital for the procreation of the species. All on board were privy to front row seats for the play!
Our group of whales finally dispersed, only to be replaced by yet another group. Then a third, and finally even one more. Each group of four to six adults intent on their own passionate role in this wonderful drive to pass on their genes to future generations. Our local Mexican pangero Nestor was as excited as any of the visiting nortenos. In his 22 years in the lagoon he had never seen this kind of amorous action! Our morning literally flew by in all the excitement.
Feeling totally elated and satiated at the same time our experience was just coming to an end. Mother nature cooperated to help us find the Sea Lion by allowing the fog to burn off and leave no trace of its' earlier grip on our surroundings. Exhuberent conversation filled the boat, in both the Spanish and English varieties! As if all the action wasn't enough to remind us of the reason we had journeyed so far to this remote part of Baja, an adult gray whale chose to breach three times just in front of our bow! Thirty-five tons of whale nearly clearing the water completely, only to come crashing down into the lagoon with a resounding crash and HUGE splash! Our tour was complete. Quite simply put, it doesn't get any better than this!
