The Palouse River and the Snake River

The sharp smell of big sagebrush scented the breeze this morning as we set out by Zodiac and (luxurious) school bus to explore the Palouse country of eastern Washington. The harsh sounds and stirring sight of a hundred Canada geese forming a vee above the river mouth brings memories of other autumns along rivers. Perhaps the ancestors of these geese were in the vicinity of the Palouse River when Lewis and Clark came by in dugout canoes two hundred years ago, naming it Drewyer’s River. There is a sense of timelessness here, and it is easy to imagine tule mat houses where a yellow school bus now sits idling while Nez Perce warriors watch and wait on the cliffs above us.

A red-tailed hawk circled and landed in the rocks while small flocks of American coots scatter in front of the Zodiac and comically attempt to gain altitude. Several kayaks glide by enjoying the magnificent scene. We talk about the remarkable story of the geological processes that formed these layers of basalts and the famous Bretz floods that more recently shaped the dramatic landscape. The sweet trill of a canyon wren drifts across the water and later we delight in a close encounter with one of these small birds with its grand voice. Up at the falls, there is hot chocolate and schnapps to tame the chill breeze and add to the enjoyment of viewing the 185’ cascade of the Palouse River canyon.

In the afternoon, Cindy and Captain Carden arranged with the lock master at Lower Monumental lock and dam to permit our Zodiacs to lock down with the ship. The trip is a great new perspective on these gigantic concrete structures as well as an opportunity for a closer look at the fish ladder and smolt bypass systems at the dam. Later, Jerry told us some very interesting tales about where and how the brave and adventurous individuals of the Corps of Discovery lived out their lives. After our own explorations of this glorious country, it is not surprising that many of those men returned to the wild open spaces of the west.