San Esteban and San Pedro Martir Islands

San Esteban is one of our favorite destinations in the midriff area of Gulf of California because it is one of the oldest and most isolated islands, as well as the home site for an interesting animal: the piebald or giant chuckwalla. In fact, many islands in the so called Sea of Cortes have a resident or endemic chuckwalla population, but that on San Esteban is special for its great size (compared with other) and because they are seen more easily, more frequently and closer than the others. The tameness and gigantism of this animal is a fascinating characteristic of isolated populations on islands, only comparable to the unique adaptations shown by the marine iguanas in the Galápagos, or the varied colors and sizes of the Madagascar chameleons.

We walked on a wide arroyo and we observed many chuckwallas warming up under the cholla cacti to get the optimal body temperature and be ready for the daily seeking of food, that consist mainly in cardon fruits at this time of the year. Young animals were not found as they likely migrate inland or to the rocky slopes to avoid predation by the other conspicuous resident of the island: the spiny tailed iguana, of which we saw several individuals on the ground or atop the cardon branches as they are more arboreal than the piebald chuckwallas.

The Sea Voyager left San Esteban and moved southeast seeking for marine mammals in our way to San Pedro Martir Island, our next destination. We didn’t wait to long to see several sperm whales looking for the abundant Humboldt squid, their main prey. We were surrounded by blows from these cetaceans, the largest of the toothed whales. They were principally females and young animals that usually are distributed into tropical and subtropical waters. A Zodiac was dropped in an effort to get some footage. Certainly, our Undersea Specialist showed us a fantastic view of their bodies underwater. After enjoying the sperm whales, we arrived to San Pedro Martir, where we cruised on our Zodiacs. Hundreds of boobies, brown pelicans and California sea lions were seen. This day was a fantastic beginning of our voyage.