Gulf of Panama

The sun appeared as a magenta orb rising from the sea. From our anchorage in a bay on Isla Otoque, we watched as it slipped behind a veil of dawn clouds. The early-risers then climbed into Zodiacs to explore two nearby Islets. We first approached Isla Estiva whose rocky shores rose steeply from the water. Long garlands of Hylocereus cactus draped from the edges of the cliffs, and hundreds of brown pelicans perched in trees above the shoreline. Many other pelicans were circling in the sky above us. There were a few blue-footed boobies sighted here as well. The nearby larger island, Isla Bona, boasted great numbers of magnificent frigatebirds, and also many nesting brown boobies. Several of the male frigatebirds were displaying to attract mates by showing off their inflated, bright red, gular pouches. On the higher slopes of the island, Tabebuia trees were flowering in profusion with crowns bursting with mauve colored blossoms.

For those who chose not to rise at dawn, a second group set out after breakfast to explore these small islets that so many seabirds call home. By mid morning the tropical sun was beaming upon us from a clear sky. We headed by Zodiac around the eastern tip of Isla Otoque to the nearby village bearing that same name. The town of Otoque is a quiet and colorful group of homes perched on a hillside overlooking the Gulf of Panama. This peaceful fishing village appears to seldom see visitors such as us. We climbed worn cement steps from the gravel beach to the one main street of the town. Here, curious children gathered around to watch us, and soon they were all laughing as they were shown images of themselves readily displayed on the backs of digital cameras. These are the modern version of old Polaroid cameras that so ably allow other people to see images of themselves. Sadly, unlike Polaroids, these digital cameras do not easily allow us to leave a photo print as a gift to the kind people who so politely received us into their town. We returned to the ship with memories and some photos of brightly painted homes and boats – reds, blues and greens – framed by waving coconut palms and happy children. Otoque; a tranquil place by a bountiful sea.

We raised anchor and set sail to the south and then west, rounding the broad Peninsula de Azuero en route to Isla Coiba. Eventually a brilliant orange sun sank behind the distant land as we sailed on into the tropical night.