There is nothing quite like this island in all of the Pacific Ocean. Dare I say, the world?

The feel, smell, colors, sounds are a unique combination of seabird, guano, ocean, incense tree and warm, humid air. Red-footed boobies, great frigatebirds, occasional sea lions, swallow-tailed gulls, small marine iguanas, Galápagos fur seals, hammerhead sharks. Moans and groans, clacking bills, clucking trills, squawks, and drumming. The sound static underwater broken by squeals of excitement at sightings. The whistling of feathers overhead. The splat of guano on deck.

Kayaks and paddleboards, walks and water, Zodiac rides along the base of the cliffs occupied our morning. Nazca boobies, blue-footed boobies, and red-footed boobies can all be found on this island, although the blue-foots don’t nest here. A short-eared owl hunting Galápagos storm petrels.