The day started as early as chronologically possible. Shortly after midnight, the bridge team spotted Northern Lights and the message went out. A handful of guests rushed to the bow to see the lights under a clear, moon-less, and star-filled sky. The glow of cell phones moving about attempting to get the perfect photo was like watching fireflies flit about in forests.

Several hours after this very early excitement, we journeyed on by bus ride to Old Masset, alternating between the open coast and dense forest. Upon arrival, we were invited to the studios of two internationally acclaimed and oft-awarded master carvers, Jim Hart and Christian White. In their studios, we heard background stories of carvings in various stages of completion and viewed up close the delicate and fine craftmanship in pieces ranging from shoe-box size to massive totems and canoes.

A bountiful lunch was served at Christians ‘Big House’, followed by several traditional dances accompanied by Christian’s deep rhymical chanting. The performance was concluded by the dancers first inviting the women to participate in the women’s dance, then men for the men’s dance. Nearly everyone participated with joyful enthusiasm. The day concluded with a thorough investigation of local galleries for the perfect memento.