We spent our last full day of our Iceland circumnavigation on Heimaey, the largest of the Westman Islands (or Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic). Our guide, whose name in English translates to “peace thief,” was born and raised on this island and saw absolutely no reason to leave (except for occasional trips to the mainland for new glasses or furniture). He led us on a tour to various local sites, including a visit to Europe’s windiest spot, a large puffin colony, and a panoramic drive across the lava fields. The tour ended at the Eldheimar Volcano Museum, which tells the dramatic story of the 1973 eruption.

While Heimaey is quite a striking place, despite our guide’s love for his home, I found it hard to imagine spending my life on such a remote chunk of rock, especially knowing that a volcano lies underneath one’s feet, perhaps ready to erupt again at any moment. Then, I noticed the excellent local microbrewery, The Brothers, which is producing some of the world’s best beer. Perhaps it is time to reconsider my position; with beer like this, life might not be so hard here after all.