This morning we awoke aboard National Geographic Sea Lion to flat calm conditions and sunny skies in Icy Strait at the northern end of the inside passage. Awoken by the heavy breathing of humpbacks amidst a surreal scene, we could sense another epic day on the horizon. As we prepared for the great unknown of the wilderness and wildness that makes Alaska so full of unexpected encounters, a humpback surfaced in the emerald green waters close to the ship.
After breakfast we launched on the first outing of the day, cruising in our small boats along the shores of the Inian islands. Steller sea lions swam alongside and their presence teased us for all that was about to unfold. Approaching a rock in turbulent waters, sea lions of varying sizes were perched high and dry on a haul-out, providing us stellar views of this largest species of eared pinniped. With the ability to rotate their pelvis (unlike seals) these animals are quadrupeds out of water and use the rocks around Cross Sound to rest.
Cross Sound and the pulse of life that comes in from the Pacific causes a congregation of fauna large and small as food is abundant and the changing of tides is like a blender in the sea, stirring prey for all who inhabit this northern portal of the Inside Passage. Individual sea lions of reproductive age and size are out along the outer coast at this time of year at rookeries where large males defend harems and females give birth.
Continuing down Inian Pass we encountered an incredible abundance of humpbacks, harbor porpoises, bald eagles and sea lions feeding in the churning waters of a changing tide. Glimpses of the tallest coastal range in the world provided quite a backdrop and then, like icing on the cake, orcas arrived! Tall dorsal fins swam amongst our boats and with a 360-degree view of all things that make Alaska so special, we truly felt like we were in the palm of nature’s hand as we revolved ever more deeply into the current of its chaos and order.
After lunch we explored an area around Idaho Inlet and the forest around Fox Creek. The presence of brown bears on this part of Chichagof Island was evident as we walked along a habitual bear trail encapsulated in moss and encountered a bear scratching tree. With signs of Ursus arctos we could only imagine what this area is like when the salmon run and the bears amass the weight they need to see them through their winter dormancy. Blessed by the beauty of Alaska, this day will forever be imprinted in our memories of this truly epic place.
