We left our peaceful anchorage off Fernandina at 0500 and navigated east to anchor just before breakfast in Urbina Bay at the base of Volcan Alcedo. This area was uplifted dramatically in either 1953 or 1954 and on our morning hikes we could still see evidence that the ocean once covered the trails where we walked. There were encrustations of tube worms and several large coral heads, all high and dry and slowly disintegrating. What we enjoyed most however this morning were nearly a dozen giant tortoises of all sizes that we were surprised and delighted to find lumbering slowly along the sandy paths among the lush vegetation behind the landing beach. It had apparently rained hard the day before and all the terrestrial critters were on the move! Land iguanas were mating, yellow warblers, finches and mocking birds were singing and the tortoises were on their way somewhere - busily walking, to where? – we did not know!