When you are in Antarctica, you have to make the most of every day…and today was certainly a day for doing exactly that! We got an early start to the day and awoke to a slightly overcast and cool breezy morning. The National Geographic Orion was positioned just north of Cape Renard at the entrance to the spectacular Le Maire Channel, coffee and pastries were needed to help with the early wake up call. The Captain took the ship in to the small gap between Cape Renard and False Cape Renard, and as we soaked up the incredible scenery the cloud slowly dissipated and the sun shone.
We then entered the Le Maire and cruised slowly south, with spectacular sunshine, and almost mill-pond conditions. The reflections were incredible, and the scenery jaw-dropping as we slowly cruised through this narrow gap, seeing crabeater seals, penguins, and the odd minke whale. Everyone was out on deck enjoying the sunshine and scenery.
This was all before breakfast! So time for a quick bite, and then readying ourselves for a morning ashore on Petermann Island. We visited various historic sites, and also had our first encounter with Adelie penguins, the truly Antarctic cousins of the gentoos and chinstraps. Their breeding cycle was well underway, with large chicks that were clearly a few weeks ahead of the neighboring gentoo penguins. The sun continued to shine, and the penguins were visibly panting to try and cool themselves in the warm and windless conditions. Even we panted and wondered, why we had dressed so warmly?
As we had lunch back onboard the ship slowly relocated in towards Pleneau Island. But even lunch was not sacred, and the call to come out on deck and see the absolutely spectacular scenery with mirror calm conditions was made. Wow, Antarctica at its best! With a plan for the afternoons activities hatched, we boarded the zodiacs for a cruise through icebergs and sea ice, looking for wildlife and sculptures of icy proportions. But even best laid plans go out the window when something unexpected happens…and all of a sudden an emperor was found. The zodiacs sped towards the location, and everyone got to see the large figure of a juvenile emperor penguin way up on a snowbank, molting and looking a little worse for wear, but still the largest and most fabled of the penguins. Some chose to step ashore, and with the bird in the spotting scope, we were able to see the finer details of this truly Antarctic beast.
Back onboard for cocktails and dinner, the day was far from over. After dinner as we headed out through the pack ice and made a general course for the Antarctic Circle (another welcome change of plan), the light and ice was truly stunning. Flat calm conditions, grease ice forming, and hours of beautiful glowing skies…no time for sleeping!
