Neko Harbour and Danco Island, 11/17/2023, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
After a streak of blue-sky days, we were actually pining for some moody skies and snowfall. Our wishes were granted, and we experienced a day of typical Antarctic Peninsula weather for our landings.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
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We arrived in the morning at the beautiful Saunders Island, home to the family of Expedition Leader Russ. It is always very special to visit this island, and the welcome we get is absolutely amazing. Today we visited the settlement and got a tour of the farm. The working dogs of the island met us on the beach and gladly joined our Zodiacs for a tour around the bay, happily barking at the many Commerson’s dolphins playing around us. In the afternoon we tried to go to the rookery on the other side of the island for a chance to see rockhopper penguins and black-browed albatross. The weather was not on our side, and halfway through the landing operation we decided to change our plans. It was an adventurous Zodiac ride back to the ship and the joy of being greeted with a warm beverage from our bar team was enormous.
Light winds and calm waters greeted us as National Geographic Endurance entered Port Stanley this morning. We disembarked after a breakfast, and the Zodiacs brought us ashore, where morning excursions awaited. Some of us enjoyed a visit to Fitzroy Farm, while others took a tour of local highlights. Some guests enjoyed a walk through town for some shopping. The streets were peppered with spectators and colorful runners for the annual local marathon. The afternoon offered the option of a second excursion, including one to Gypsy Cove. Detailed stories from local guides related eyewitness accounts that could never be found in books. After a long day, the winds picked up, and it was time for an exciting Zodiac ride back to the ship for a very special dinner. If that wasn’t enough, the evening’s entertainment was a local band brought on board by our ever so able and creative expedition leader. We could not have hoped for a better end to such a full day.
Despite the stiff breeze, we were able to land on one of the southernmost islands in the Falkland Islands: Barren Island. With dozens of South American sea lion harems and hundreds of southern giant petrel chicks, we had plenty to see and photograph on shore. The afternoon was spent ship-cruising Falkland Sound, watching sei whales and flocks of feeding Magellanic penguins.
