We awakened this morning aboard National Geographic Sea Lion to overcast but dry skies. Mist clung to the trees along the shoreline as the ship anchored off Pavlof Harbor, where we planned to spend our morning. In the spring and early summer we take hikes here along a large stream with gushing waterfall, through the beautiful forest and meadows, and around a great lake. But by mid-summer the focus of our outing shifts. The salmon begin to fill the stream, swimming up to spawn, and attracting all manner of wildlife to feed. Especially bears. Our plan was to shuttle ashore and keep vigil on the stream in the hope that at least one hungry bear would show up to fish. We stood in a condensed area along one side of the bank downstream, and watched in amazement as a mother and her two cubs fished and shared their meal, and another solitary bear fished and swam. Another solitary bear that had been there initially, wandered off into the forest, and later, another appeared. The staff held the perimeter of our group and kept watch of the bears, their movements, and also the edges along the forest and the stream in all directions. Wow! What an amazing opportunity to watch these massive creatures go about their daily business, and avoid and interact with each other. Towards the end of our viewing the solitary bear charged at the mom and her two cubs, who ran into the forest alongside where we were standing. We moved our group quickly downstream to the waiting expedition crafts, donned life jackets, and left shore. What an incredible encounter! Back onboard we gathered in the lounge for a presentation and discussion about the remarkable role that salmon play in the Pacific Northwest ecosystem.
After lunch we cruised south in Chatham Strait. People napped, edited photos, packed, took a galley tour, and searching for wildlife. By mid-afternoon our efforts were rewarded as we approached humpback whales close to the surface lateral lunge-feeding and individual bubble-net feeding. We stayed with these whales—perhaps a dozen—for nearly two hours as they moved hungrily and gracefully through the water. We watched with anticipation as they blew circles of bubbles then came up with gaping mouth, the huge lower jaw pleats expanding to engulf the prey, and then pushing out the water through the baleen. Occasionally we saw some lob-tailing and pec-slapping. I will never tire of watching the graceful arching of the back, raising of the fluke, and elegant return of the fluke to the water. Over and over again, I heard my fellow passengers sigh in admiration at this sight as well. Kudos to our third mate for great driving. What an unbelievable finale to our trip!
Back in the lounge we had a talk called Pacific Northwest Culture, Art and People, and then gathered for our last recap including photo slide show from the trip and underwater footage taken during a dive by our undersea specialist and purser. This was followed by another delicious meal by our galley, served up by our amazing stewards. How to sum up this day, this trip? Rich, breathtaking, beautiful, wild… and yet, just another day here in Southeast Alaska. What a blessing.
